The Best Wave of Shane Dorian’s Life

Shane breaks down the wave that raised the bar for big-wave surfing at Jaws

| posted on January 14, 2013

  • rw


  • Troy S

    Getting barreled is”Raising the bar for big wave surfing” and just amazing. I would really like to see someone raise the bar of big wave surfing by using the energy of the wave to lean into a beautiful bottom turn that sends them straight up the face and them rip off the top of the lip throwing spray twenty feet through the air and then rocketing straight down the face to set up another beautiful turn. I guess watching someone in a survival stance holding their speed and just drawing a bee line to the safety or the shoulder is understandable but watching a surfer use the energy of the wave to make the most perfect turn to set up the next beautiful turn is more soulful to me. Am I the only one who thinks that there is more to surfing than just pointing your board and racing away from the wave?

  • deb

    the only thing better than that ride was his description of it, you can feel his passion for it. Shane’s the man.