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Spot: Malibu, CA [mal·a·boo]
34°1′50″N, 118°46′43″W
The Waves
First surfed by Tom Blake and Sam Reid in 1926, Malibu was considered the original perfect wave well into the 1950s. Malibu is a natural point formed by the sand and cobblestones brought to sea by Malibu Creek. The point changes from season to season with currents and river flow. In summer the point is rocky while in winter the river brings sand which extends the beach.
From the east, what people generally call “Malibu” is First Point, which is possibly the best longboard wave in the world, and where California hotdogging and noseriding were perfected in the 50s and 60s. First Point is a right that peels for over a hundred yards on a good day, and is a great hotdog wave for long and shortboarders – if you can get one to yourself.
Paddling up from First Point, the exact location of Second Point shifts around with the sandbar and the swell direction. Sometimes Second Point doesn’t exist at all, other times it’s closed out, and every once in a while it fires and you can get barreled. And when Malibu is really smoking, it’s possible to take out pretty far outside at Second and if you are fast enough and can yell loud enough and know jiu jitsu, you might make it through to First Point and all the way to the Pier.
There was a time when Malibu lined up from the top of Third Point, but a couple of El Nino winters and the blocking of Malibu Lagoon changed all that. Now Third Point is a world unto itself, with a different way in from the rest of Malibu, it’s own parking lot, it’s own lifeguard tower and a different view of things. Third Point is generally a shortboard wave, peakier and faster than First and more consistent than Second Point.
The walk in through the wetlands to Third Point is refreshing and the view from the beach up Malibu Canyon is pretty remarkable. Nature hasn’t been completely paved over here.
Best Swell, Size and Direction
Malibu is all about summer swells from the south and southwest, although west swells from the proper angle will get in there in the winter. Malibu is generally flat from November to April, with some exceptions. Southern hemis hit Malibu right on the bean and there isn’t much shadowing from Catalina.
This is how the Surfing Guide to Southern California summed it up in 1965: “Breaks mainly on south and southwest swells; usually 2-4 feet, occasionally reaches 6-8 feet, rarely larger. A few strong west swells produce small waves here, while north swells produce absolutely nothing. Waves not always tubular but seldom mushy except at very high tides. Slightest south wind completely destroys wave quality, but normal afternoon west sea breeze comes from slightly offshore, so area seldom blows out. Small rocks begin below mean high tide line and are more numerous and sharper toward point, where spiny sea-urchins also abound.”
Sea urchins aren’t a problem at Malibu anymore, but the rest of that is true. Malibu generally likes a medium tide coming up. Waves are made of water, so the more water the better. Very low tides and very high tides will switch the wave machine off completely.
Another nice thing about First Point is that onshore winds blow offshore there, so it only blows out on southeast winds, which are rare. Second and Third are more exposed to the wind, and blow out much easier.
Offshore winds, like big swells, don’t happen often enough.
Surrounding Spots
About eight miles to the east, between Malibu and Santa Monica, Sunset Beach is a popular beginner’s spot where Sunset Boulevard meets the sea, at Gladstone’s. Sunset is generally a bad wave, but has its moments on big winter swells.
A mile closer to Malibu, Topanga is a point similar to Malibu that is better in the winter and on north swells.
North of Malibu, the surf spots at Malibu Colony and Point Dume are private. On the other side of Point Dume, Zuma Beach is a couple miles of beachbreaks that have plenty of room. Past there are points, reefs and beachbreaks all the way up to County Line, and beyond.
Difficulty Level
The wave is easy, the crowd is hard. First Point Malibu is popular with longboarders and older surfers for a reason. It doesn’t take reflexes to surf, but it gives a long, fun ride anyway. Second Point and Third Point are generally reserved for shortboarders. The rides are shorter and shape changes with the tide a lot.
The best place for beginners is not First Point, but the cove at Third Point, which is loaded with beginners and surf schools all summer long (and you might see Turtle!!!!)
Localism Factor
To paraphrase the narration from Apocalypse Now, “Being a local enforcer at Malibu is like handing out speeding tickets at the Indy 500.” Or more appropriately, speeding tickets on Pacific Coast Highway.
Locals gave up trying to control Malibu many years ago. It’s not that the masses at Malibu don’t play by the rules, it’s that they don’t seem to know there are any rules of the road in surfing: Don’t drop in, don’t paddle around people, hold onto your board, surfer closest to the curl has right of way etc.
Malibu is an easy place to paddle out, even on a bigger day, and the resulting mix of locals, Valleys, tourists, longboarders, shortboarders, SUP all thrown together in swift collision makes for chaos.
When local surfers tried to put up a Rules of the Road sign, the cops made them take it down. Vandalism and theft is rare, at least from surfers.
Malibu is too crowded to be regulated – and there are too many lawyers in the water for anyone to start a fight - although some of the longtime surfers at First, Second and Third Points will sound you if you do something stupid.
The best surfers just learn to surf around the crowd, so keep an eye on Allen Sarlo, Andy Lyon, the Marshall Brothers, Carla Rowland and others to see crowd surfing at its finest.
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