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Spot: Makaha, HI
The Waves
There are four parts of Makaha: The Point, the Bowl, the Blowhole and the Inside Reef. The Point doesn’t start to show until six or 10 feet, depending on who you are talking to, because Hawaiian size is different from haole size. But you will know Point surf when you see it. The Point breaks up to 20-foot plus, and is a screaming fast wall that leads to the infamous Bowl, which has been kicking ass and taking names for over 70 years now.
When the surf is smaller, the takeoff is in the Bowl area and that leads to the Blowhole section, which leads to the Inside Reef which connects to the world-famous shorebreak, which also has a habit of swatting surfers around – local or haole, it doesn’t matter.
Click here for a YouTube of Leah Dawson surfing a small, fun day at Makaha.
Best Swell, Size and Direction
Summer swells rarely get big at Makaha and there are other spots along the West Side that are better known for their summer surf. In the winter, Makaha soaks up swell from west to northwest and the spot is almost as consistent as the North Shore although north swells sometimes don’t make it around the corner.
Surrounding Spots
Most of the surf spots along here are lava points, with some beachy places in between the nooks and crannies.
To the north: Free Hawaii, Yokohama and Third Dips. To the south, Klausmeyers, Turtle Ranch, Pokai Bay, Sewers.
Down the coast the big point that you thought was Makaha is Maili Point, which was one of the most prized waves of the 1960s.
Difficulty Level
A great beginner wave when it’s smaller, Makaha is still one of the most challenging big waves in the world when it’s 12 to 15 feet and getting bigger.
Localism Factor
High. Makaha has a fierce reputation for a reason, but the vibe here isn’t relentless. As one transplanted California/Hawaiian said: “I love those guys. But I would never want to be on their bad side. They are the epitome of Hawaiian native temperament. In effect, when they love you, you will never feel so a part of the family. If they hate you, did you mention what happened to Captain Cook? Mel Pu’u is related to Kalani O Puu who actually did the man in. The Pu’u family originated on the Big Isle and Kalani O Puu was uncle to Kamehameha and it is likely why he was not slaughtered at Hawaii Kai, I think.”
Show respect. Don’t blunder in like some clueless haole, DON’T try to speak pidgin, you will sound like an idiot. Be low key, try to surf good, don’t drop in and don’t complain when someone drops in on you. You are a visitor and a guest, at best.
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