The Hossegor Journals

Notes from a rendezvous in France for our March issue

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| posted on February 11, 2013
  • Ouch

    So hipster, it hurts.

  • Jimmy the Saint

    comparing the rail games of Occy and Dion, hmm…

  • sebastien

    morgan massen wont be welcom back after a few of those photos reach the french boys — we warned u guys….

  • Mik

    Great photo essay… One of the best ever. Also, great crew of surf talent. BTW: just finished re-watching The Drifter, featuring Rob Machado, and it was interesting. The first time I watched, when it was released, I was hypercritical of the story-line. Since then I have been to Bali, and so watching it was filled with my own memories, which include how intense the surf is there. On another level… and that level is significantly higher than most surf in Hawaii, other than Pipleline / Backdoor / Off the Wall in terms of performance surfing. And Machado’s surfing is on another level too. Maybe the most Spiritually fluid surfing I’ve seen on film. So as much as I admire Craig Anderson as having a huge influence on where I want to go stylistically, let’s not forget Rob Machado. He’s still massively talented in ways that even the WCT talent isn’t tapping into.

  • Mik

    @sebastian: in reward for your comment, u are automatically not welcome back to wherever you are going. by ur own decree.

  • withouteethtwillbebetter

    @Mik…I don’t understand…you said we’re all welcome in wolfpack’s land for exemple? It is it ?

  • Mik

    if i have to explain, it’s meaningless.

    but as an American, i have a different take on France than Hawaii.

    the French should welcome us there, because many of our fathers/grandfathers died there, in a successful effort to liberate them from Hitler’s thugs. in fact, many died on the beaches.

    so to read of some small-minded local making threats to an American photographer, who is simply enjoying the experience of surfing there, is offensive.

    it’s too soon to ignore that, as far as i’m concerned.

    as for Hawaii, we took, and we seem inclined to keep taking based on the Surfline / Hurley live Pipeline scene I watched. about a zillion guys out? i don’t blame the locals from trying to create some order out there. i lived in Hawaii, so i say this from experience.

    France is different. for one it will never be as crazy as Hawaii… and two: they are lucky they had friends like us to fight for them. actually, they have no idea how lucky they are.


  • withouteethwillbebetter

    Sorry Mik, we’re not agree.
    We’ll never been probably.

    Small minded for us is to make everywhere as at home without listening opinion/ warning.

    Froggys must be less respected than tahitians? – if you need a another example –

    For the historic reference it’s true but you go to hardly: if you want i keep you one of my daughters so…


  • Jobseeker

    Mik – I have read your comments before, and generally I have agreed with your well put arguements, but this time you are way out of line. While I don’t want to get into a historic debate, you did bring this up. American only joined that war long after France was invaded. France helped American during their own war of independence, and I don’t know what they teach you in America, but amoungst the most well respected World War two historians (i.e Max Hastings etc) there is general agreement that it was the tyrant Stalin and Russia that destroyed Hitler, and not the Americans. America only launched D-Day when it was obvious that the Nazis were going to lose and the Americans and British felt that they had to strike before the whole of western europe came under soviet rule. My own country has a long an bloody history with a neighbouring country. But that is it, its history and this is surfing, leave your flags on the beach!

  • Mik

    @jobseeker: i do respect your view… but why we went to help is one thing, and the fact that we did, and that our families gave their lives to help France is another. I don’t tend to live in the past, and i do consider myself part of a world famiy that speaks many languages…

    so i was just trying to let “sebastian” know that his comment was lame, for many reasons. your probably from a generation more removed from that history, but even then, it’s too soon to ignore off-handedly. and beyond that, looking at the photos, there is so little in them that would give away exactly where they were taken, that i find the protectionist bizarre.

    as for “withouteethwillbebetter”, not sure what he’s trying to say, but i’m sure it’s passionate?

  • Hossegor Bound

    Man you guys need to shut up! this is surfing. Its for fun, remember that. he said she said blah blah blah. French or American your a human. Travel is fun, shoot photos not guns.