hey kooks! wish i was there. you know how muchi miss the ocean. ihave to leave the swells for my son and grandsons now. good waves to everyone fromSunset to the jetties.
That long-period West swell lit up Santa Cruz! As the swell backed off a bit (though still plenty of size) along with the winds lightening up, Steamer Lane was epic as the final slide illustrates. Consistent double-overhead sets pumping through Middle Peak and Indicators with just a few guys and myself there to score on the last big swell of the 2011-2012 season. Who would have thought that it’s actually possible in this crowded day and age to get some waves to yourself at one of California’s finest point-breaks!