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Great movie & the soundtrack went right along with the season. It reminded me of the longest right of my life on my 7’4 Vega thruster I bought from Glenn Kennedy in the early 80′s. Rubber leggs afterwards sure made it a long hike back up to the point. Stoke carried me!
These were the last people that tried to catch me…
Dear Surfing Magazine,
Aloha. Since I was a child I have always been very interested in trolls. Therefore, it is with great interest that I saw you found one at minute 3:44 in your video. Could you please tell me the exact location of where you found it? Are there more than one or even a small community of them living and hiding somewhere north of Santa Barbara? Perhaps it dwells near Goleta or under the railroad bridge at El Capitan State Beach Park? My friend, who used to be a biologist at UCSB before he was fired for being too mean to the students (and for being a pervert), thinks this one may be a mix between a common mountain troll and some suborder of Caniformia (the family of animals that dogs and bears belong to) or a ‘trog.’ Seeing it on video gave me quite a fright, however it has at least led me to Rincon State Beach Park where I will be able to catch it with a large throw net and inspect it to see if my (perverted) friend is correct or if it is a pureblood (highly rare!). Keep enjoying those beautiful waves, they remind me of when I was young.
Brings back some great memories!
this is the best wave on the planet. Absolutely beautiful film!!!
Beautiful Rincon, Thank you so much for the video, and the music was spectacular, it brought me back to when I surfed there last, which was in May, of 1972. Maranatha, peace to you all.
Great little movie! Thank you. As for the slow-shutter images, really not into them. Real = better.
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