Photo

Impromptu Pipe

An unexpected swell lights up the North Shore

| posted on January 28, 2013
  • portagee

    There are local bodysurfers who rip pipe anytime it breaks, and the only shot you have of someone bodysurfing is a shot of Dan Malloy and a pair of Da fins. Let it be known that I am sick and tired of everyone from Malloy to Cunningham advertising these fins. Show some of the old school legends that frequent the place, instead of the glam-barnyard that still needs to have a public face. So over it. So, so over it.

  • http://surfermag.com Pat

    Great pics. Thanks for sharing.

  • I like the Portagee

    You guys should look into doing a story on Larry Russo, he has been bodysurfing at Pipeline since the late sixties. He some great stories.

  • Tony Carlson

    I surfed Pipe and Sunset for a whole season in 1963-1964 and there were always 2 body surfers out at Pipe especially, that could rip any wave on inside reef doing propellar rolls down every wave and getting really deep inside Pipe, their favorite spot was about 1/8th mile south of Pipe, they said the reef there was a better wave for bodysurfing..I would talk a lot with them out in the lineup at Pipe…they had the Aloha spirit and helped me surf Pipe better because they dialed me in to take off triangulation..I rode a 10.6′ semi-gun shaped by Greg Noll and it was super fast at any spot especially at Pipe..only rode 2nd reef Pipe at 20′ a few times..lived in a house down at Sunset Beach…the local bodysurfers there deserve a good story and pics..really true watermen!..The Tone

  • Rooster

    NO swell on the North Shore is a suprise, thanks to Guy Hagi, the entire Island knows when it’s coming.

  • rw

    That picture of Billy Kemper is so sick.

  • Sebastian

    The 3rd photo is Sebastian Correa

  • adam

    Epic pics!

    However, cheesy and irritating comments, better captions next time please.