Believe the Hype
The swell that had lit the North Shore aflame in anticipation for the past week finally connected to the islands with some of the biggest surf seen in decades today. Traffic was backed up as far as the eye could see and the potent swell left a salty fog lingering in the air. With waves stacked to the horizon—I don’t know how big to call it, I grew up in Hawaii and am still confused on the difference between 20 and 25 foot, but apparently it’s much more than a literal five feet—the only bet was Waimea and a few outer reefs.
So we went to Waimea to watch the carnage and this is what we heard/saw.
Tom Carroll busted up his ankle on a bomb and was taken away in an ambulance and a female charger who will go unamed took a beating and a half on the rocks (we have video…) as she tried to paddle out through the shorebreak. She made it after a second try and would catch a bomb.
I also learned two fundamental truths: Greg Long is a f–king legend and Grant Twiggy Baker doesn’t care if he lives or dies. Of this I’m sure.
So that’s the day thus far. Keep checking the site for more updates.