Notes From The House
The North Shore is a place of contrasts. One minute it’s flat, the next minute it’s 20 feet. One day it’s onshore and rainy, the next it’s offshore and beautiful. Or, in the case of last night, one minute you’re at an ohana-esque barbecue with all of the Town & Country crew and plenty of sticky rice, mac salad and teriyaki steak you can eat, then before you know it some strung out, ice smoking son of a bitch is breaking into your house and stealing your wallet…that’s a true story.
Break-in aside, it’s been a pretty good week, highlighted by the Rip Curl benefit for the North Shore Lifeguard Association at Waimea Falls. Tom Curren and Kelly Slater supplied the tunes for awhile with some skills on guitar that rivaled their skills in the water. Surfboards were auctioned off, a beautiful Dick Brewer gun serving as the centerpiece, food and drinks were served, a skin-filled fashion show entertained, and as one 19-year-old girl remarked, “I had fun dancing when ‘those guys’ played guitar.”
Monday morning came along with a new swell, and the potential to run the first day of the first round of the Pipe Masters, but it wasn’t meant to be. For several hours the ASP surfer’s representatives, the judges and contest directors watched the conditions, eventually calling it off for the day. That’s not to say there weren’t some bombs ridden while the surfers waited. 40-year-old Tom Curren put in the marathon session, Kelly got a few good ones, Brazilian Bernardo Pigmeu got what was thought to be the wave of the day until Randall Paulson stepped up to the plate and caught what most are calling the wave of the winter thus far. Contest or no contest, Pipe was still the main event.
The big talk on the North Shore as of late is the forecasted swell. “No bullshit, it could be bigger than ‘98’s Big Wednesday,” stated heavy water eccentric Ace Cool. “You better be ready!” So, with the surf world anticipating a possible running of the Eddie on Wednesday and the conclusion of the Pipe Masters hot on it’s heals we could be looking at a Quadruple Crown versus the standard Triple Crown.
And on a slightly down note, it’s been easy pickings for the thieves lately. The Quiksilver house got hit hard, the SURFER house had an unfortunate run-in in the middle of the night, and more than one car window has been smashed in. But such is life I suppose, with the good comes the bad, and there’s been plenty of good to go around for everybody. With a swell on the horizon winter marches on, and so do all of the surfers.