Article

Garrett McNamara Withdraws from XXL

Garrett McNamara pulls his famed Nazare ride from the running at big-wave awards show

| posted on March 06, 2013
Garrett McNamara Nazare XXL

Garrett McNamara in Nazaré, Portugal. Photo: Tó Mané courtesy of Billabong XXL

After catching one of the most publicized waves of the year in Nazaré, Portugal, Garrett McNamara gained international fame as news of his ride swept through the global media. As claims that McNamara had surfed the first 100-foot wave spread, surfers on both sides of the aisle debated the merit of the ride. But in an unforeseen turn, McNamara recently announced that he has decided to pull his ride from the XXL Awards.

While the exact size of the ride is still under debate, it was largely assumed that the ride would be a shoo-in for a win in one of this year’s Billabong XXL Award. In an interview with SURFER, McNamara cited his opposition to the event’s alcohol sponsor, Pacifico Beer, as his primary motive for removing his ride.

“I decided to pull my ride from the event because I’m opposed to the event having an alcohol sponsor. I’ve been thinking a lot about what we really contribute to this world, and at the end of the day you’ve got to make choices,” said McNamara. “I don’t want kids to think that they’re going to be able to accomplish their goals in life by drinking alcohol. That’s only gonna make your goals harder to accomplish and I didn’t want to be associated with that.”

McNamara went on to explain that he never personally entered his wave into the competition.

“The way it works is that the photographers actually send in their photos to the awards, not the surfer. I never actually submitted my wave. So when Bill Sharp [Director of the XXL Awards] called me the other day, I told him that I wanted to pull my wave.”

Sharp confirmed that McNamara had indeed removed his ride from the event, and all subsequent photos of the wave have been pulled from the site. Had the wave been up for an award, it would have been studied and given an approximate height value by XXL panelists.

“Garrett, through his wife Nicole, confirmed to me yesterday that he preferred to not participate in the Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards this year and I understand and respect his decision,” said Sharp. “As a result, all photos depicting him were removed from the website.”

In addition to the brief interview McNamara gave SURFER, he also released a statement explaining why he chose to pull his wave from the event. Notwithstanding his aforementioned opposition to the XXL’s alcohol sponsor, McNamara said that “…We also decided to pull my waves from Nazare out of the Billabong XXL because I do not ride for Billabong and I did not go out that day and surf for a world record or to win any XXL prize money. I was out there because I live for big waves, it’s what I love to do! It is not necessary to have a Billabong panel measure it. There have already been quite a few educated professionals who have measured it anywhere between 60-110 feet!”

In the past, McNamara has been a consistent standout at the XXL Awards, having won or been nominated in every category at the event in the past decade.

  • Frank Donavan

    Wow! I guess we should all join a commune and shelter ourselves from the real world. Pulling out because they have an alcohol sponsor? What a joke! That sounds just as extreme as being an alcoholic. Maybe he should consider teaching kids to make the right choices. Alcohol is not going away–at least not to my knowledge. I bet when he is bussing tables in a few years he will think back about this decision.

  • Chandler

    He withdrew becuase he knows, just like everyone else, that that wave is not 100 ft. It is in reality, maybe 40 ft.

  • Oppdal

    Mad respect.

  • http://postsurf.com Rich

    Sounds like he is scared of them saying it’s not 100 ft. What a transparent excuse.

  • Mexicano

    I am happy that Greg is looking for meaning in the world, but this is a smug attitude to have about the whole thing. He might not surf for the prizes of the glory, but he certainly has put in the air time with Anderson Cooper and all the morning shows. So, if he is nominated for an award, what’s the problem? Don’t attend, keep doing your thing.

    Greg McNamara’s attitude reminds me of Joaquin Phoenix at the Oscars when his best actor nomination was announced: http://cdn.fd.uproxx.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Joaquin-Phoenix-oscars-2013.gif

    The Pacifico excuse is just plain silly too…

  • Josh

    All 3 of these of the last comments here were made by complete donkeys! As a guy who surfs avidly and a guy in recovery from drigs and alcohol, i completely agree with his decision! Bottom line, all 3 of you are kooks.

  • El Snatcho

    Wow, we sure are hyper-critical of our surfing professionals. A guy turns his back on what could be a substantial prize and we give him shit for it. A guy enters his wave into the competition and we call him money hungry and a glory hound. Seems to me that people don’t like Garret and it is lose-lose no matter what he does. All I know is that there is no way in hell that I, or any one else on these message boards, would ever do what he does.

  • brokedamouth

    maybe he pulled his wave out of the XXL because the wave never even broke! Twice now this guy has gotten all this coverage for a wave filmed from high up on a cliff that appears to be “100 feet” but the reality is it is nothing compared to what Kohl, Mark, Dorian and the others are doing at Jaws and Cortes. Tow-in should no longer be considered in the XXL now that these men are paddling massive surf…

  • Ben Classen

    Stoked on it. I love seeing the boundaries pushed, but the guy stood up for what he wants to project into the world. Doesn’t really bother me if there’s an alcohol sponsoring an event, because no one really cares what the expensive wallpaper looks like, we just want to see people surfing well.

  • Derek

    I like it when I see a Champion realize how the rest of the surf world is only just trying to ride on the coat tail or swallow tail of such a noble athlete, well done Mr Mac, screw the Bong and the Beer!

    40′ or 100′ respect the man’s decision or take the drop yourself melon heads!

    Malama Mr. Mac

  • Steve

    Duh, he’s afraid to have someone confirm that the wave wasn’t that big, and that it never even broke. This way he can keep claiming ignorance. He didnt have a problem entering other events sponsored by Billabong and alcohol companies. Hypocrite.

  • eyal

    what a joke

    so all the past xxl events he was nominated and all the events he took part in thru his carrer was never sponsored by beer?

    its clear that he wants to hold on the his 100ft wave and not to be judged by pros that will probably call it 50-70ft wave.

  • HotTate

    Garret’s unwillingness to promote Pacifico, really makes me thirsty for a Pacifico…

  • Tyler

    Eyal, you clearly have no idea what you are talking about. If you actually looked into Garret’s opinion on the wave he doesn’t care about how big it is. “[He] lives for riding big waves”

  • Steve

    Tyler, you clearly don’t listen when GMAC speaks about it. he never denies the claim of 100ft. He wants the media to continue calling it 100 ft even though it never even broke.

  • Ashley

    Fact remains its a classic pic and will be seen hanging on many a grommets bedroom wall in the future. There will always be debate on what’s considered ” epic and Huge”… Truth is lets give credit to those who are risking life and limb to take the sport to its extreme limits.Thanks to the sponsors as competition and their inclusion have made a difference . But respect to a man who has a sober conviction and actually makes a good point.Competitive surfing was always going to be a challenge to those who are a little more purist. Props to Bill Sharp and his cronies for allowing the balance.

  • Handsome Bugga

    I’m not sure the wave size G man surf, if it’s 60ft or 100ft I was not there with my naked eyes to judge it. My opinion from pics I’ve seen, 67 Hawaiian luau feet give or take. What got my attention to voicing my Manao (Thoughts), what was said by G man, pulling out because of a beer sponsorship. My take on this;
    After a hot day of or surfing for hours in the Hawaiian Sun or 8-hrs workday, I open my Bruddahs cooler and looking for something cold to drink. I see Cold Beers & RedBull drink, Yep I’m going for the “Beer”! After a hot day of or surfing for hours in the Hawaiian Sun or 8-hrs workday, I open my Bruddahs cooler and looking for something cold to drink. I see Cold Beers & RedBull drink, Yep I’m going for the “Beer”! G-man have you pullout from the REDBULL EVENT AS WELL HERE IN MAUI? lets be real & keep it real. Luv you Bro and many humble surfing successful days Riding Mountain. Nui Hua (Big Balls)

  • J

    Seems like he pulled it so billabong didn’t make money off it and he could leverage it with his sponsors….

  • Tomas

    Gmac is First Class all the way. It takes abig man to do what he did. Everyone already knows the wave he rode was the biggest ever riden. Regardless of who billabong names at the biggest wave of the year it will not matter because Gmac already won this hands down.

  • http://Surfermag.com Anonymous

    One time I drank four Red Bulls and had chest pains. Nevertheless, I have been drinking copiously for years (alcohol), I never had more than a hangover. I stopped drinking alcohol for a year when I drank the Red Bull. I don’t associate the Red Bull with a history of drinking alcohol. Furthermore, I don’t think GMAC is going to influence underage drinking or charging XXL waves. Its just something to look at.

  • Tyler

    The worlds biggest kook ! First he drops in on Greg Long at Cortes and now hes doing this !? Thats such a bs excuse. RedBull is terrible for kids or anyone who drinks it. He doesnt want to be associated with Alcohol !?!? Just keep it real brah. The photo is sick but when u see the real ride , its kind of a joke. His tow partner puts his surfing to shame that day. How lame to call out Billabong as a excuse to pull out also. i really dont understand him getting any credit other than having balls. This guys worse for surfing than Laird Hamilton !!!

  • Sebas Sydney

    Politics in sport… Have we not all learnt from Hollywood and how ridiculous actors look for attempting to use their weight in the media to express their personal or company motivated polital views??

    No matter what side of the fence you sit on, politics is best left to the politicians.

    Sportsmen, just be sportsmen and enjoy the fact that others recognise you for your skills. If you want to be an individual expressing a political view, leave your sport out of it!

  • Eddie

    That wave has no trough. I send my nine year old out in that sissy euro wave

  • Royce

    I gotta say that all of these negative comments about GMac being scared about his wave being judged smaller than 100′ or he was in comps in the past with beer sponsors and him being hypocritical are just a sad indictment of how pathetic and critical and judgemental so many have become in regards to those out there pushing the boundaries of not only what is physically humanly possible but also in the arena of self improvement as human being morally.. GMac, like so many other people out there achieving great things through great feats of bravery is also growing and I proving and bettering himself as a human being.. GMac, SCARED!!??..of his wave being judged less than 100 ft?!!.. Pulease!!.. U GO TAKE THAT DROP!!!.. Good on you Gareth for having the conviction to stand up for a greater good.. Aloha nui and Kia kaha

  • hawaiiian

    all you guys that have nothing better to do than talk shit, shut up and go catch a wave 1/4 of the size.. get off your couch and shut the f#$k up

  • http://www.bj2design.com Bjarni Wark

    Full respect to Garrett, I dont think he is being extreme, besides riding waves that the average man would crumble under but making an educated and experienced choice to what he considers is beneficial to the people around him.

    He is making a sacrifice to himself which isnt hurting anyone for something he believes in. People like this are few and far between, so respect to you again Garrett.

  • wayne

    Red Bull will be the next “cigarette” of the future. It’s shit, and those drinks are bad for you, especially for kids.
    The photo is sick, but the video shows that the wave is as gay as GMac.
    Move on
    zzz…

  • Timmy

    All of a sudden I have the urge to drop everything and go get myself a case of Ice cold Pacifico.

  • ron sandler

    I respect his views and courage, a true soul surfer is a vanishing breed today, money and politic’s take away from our way of life and the Aloha.

  • Arthur

    Calling him a hypocrite or anything along those lines is an insult to the word itself. He surfed in the Todos Contest sponsored by Peligroso Tequilla. And he’s part of the world tour which was sponsored by Peligroso at one time. Apparently that wasn’t a problem. But now that his own hype is catching up to him he’s pulling out. How about this lesson for the kids Garrett, don’t be a quitter!

  • Tony Burge

    Stand tall-good call Garrett.
    It all started with the Marlborough man and yes Red Bull is not a healthy option nor is McDonalds and the list goes on…..
    We have to start somewhere.
    There are Healthy Option sponsors who could send the right message but until we start recognising them and supporting them accordingly they wont have the funds to throw around.
    I see a future where the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards will be heavily sponsored by Sporting bodies and/or Healthy options.
    Bring on the Natural Juice.

  • OB Matt

    I’ve never seen so many armchair athletes with overblown egos and diarrhea breath. Gee, I bet you’re so much MORE awesome. Can I have your autograph?

    Fuck all you pussies hiding behind your devices. I give the man props for conviction and balls.

    BTW… Alcohol really fucked with my surfing as well as everything else good in my life. IMOHO, anyone who stands up to the status quo is a big man. Way to go Bro! You have MY respect.

  • Dan

    Wasn’t that the wave that didn’t even break (just capped). Before I read the article, I thought that was why he wanted to do what he did.

  • Arthur

    Do you see Greg Long or Healey or the rest of the best bosting like this pompous a$$? No, you don’t. Because they are the best. Yeah he never said it was 100 feet, but he never said it wasn’t. Just ask Anderson Cooper.

    The modern day big way waterman has parked the skis and the hype and have concentrated on seaking out and challenging the best and biggest waves on the planet under their own power. No Wave-Jet, No Tow-In.

    Garrett is a middle aged hold-out of the old regime. His 15 minutes are up. He’s a legend in his own mind and nobody will care after about week of this thread. I just went and looked at the site and seems like Shawn Dollar and Shane Dorian’s paddle waves are bigger than any waves on the entire XXL website. Both paddle waves. Why are we arguing? He’s through. They win. Get me a beer.

  • Jfunk

    He’s upset by the beer sponsorship because it sets bad example to kids? What about burning people on a SUP, even a disabled person? Or almost killing a guy because he faded him on a 50 ft wave? Attention whore. He should be treated like the drunk guy that jumps on the field and runs the bases at baseball games…deliberately ignored by the media.

  • Manilow

    I see Garret hiring a mainstream PR firm (probably recommended by his new BFF Anderson Cooper) and taking his act completely out of the surf industry. By citing his conviction not to influence the younger generations with alcohol and alcohol sponsored events, he could be setting the table for MUCH larger mainstream sponsors to attach themselves the G Mac machine. Sadly nobody outside the surf industry cares if you paddle or tow into a giant wave….they just want you to blow their mind, and that is right in Garrets wheelhouse.

  • Mik

    I am stoked that Garret made this decision.

    All of the yahoos that equate beer consumption with enjoying a better sporting life are full of shit.

    Just look at Kelly Slater at age 41, who rarely ever drinks alcohol, and then look at the cadre of ex Aussie pros and what you’ll notice is that KS is surfing better than ever, wheras the Aussie culture creates beer-bellied, thick-necked has-beens who can still surf, yeah, but at nowhere near as high a level. Where has all of their grace and style gone? Into the pockets of beer companies who dont give a damn about the damage done. Not to mention the Viagra company parasites getting rich off of the same bad habit. Are you more of a man if you drink a beer with the boys, or are you destroying your manliness, and youth? The answer i so obvious it is laughable.

    And Garret is a man. No doubt about that.

    BTW: nothing unmanly about drinking water, or a protein smoothy, boys.

  • http://www.surfermag.com/features/mcnamara-withdraws-from-xxl/ Jay Mon

    He surfs for big waves not for the attention. From some of these comments I would guess that most of the surfing world can’t seem wrap their tiny minds around that.

  • blair

    The Pacfico is for after your massive wave Garrett, not to help you ride it.

  • Arthur

    I heard he’s gonna give all the prize money back… right.

    “Last year, Garrett McNamara’s November ’11 Nazare behemoth won both the Guinness Book of World Records for the biggest wave ever ridden as well as the Biggest Wave ($15,000) at the Billabong XXL Awards. He also won the Verizon wipeout of the year ($2,000) and came fifth in the Ride of the Year category ($1,500). He’s been participating in the XXL Awards since its inception, winning Monster Paddle ($15,000) and Overall Performer ($5,000) in 2006/07. ”

    http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/gmac-pulls-out-of-xxl-awards_93649/

  • Greg

    It was a tow in wave anyway. Shouldn’t even be allowed in the first place!

  • Joe FoneFonebone

    More beer for the rest of us.

  • Matt

    “Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.”

  • Kees Briggs

    No need to shit on McNamara for having values. I like beer, and I like that McNamara has something to say. He makes a good point. I quit sports in high school to party with friends, and wish I hadn’t in retrospect. It’s a good message and I’m glad someone sends it now and again. Might change some kid’s life from ‘might have been’ to on the ‘QS or ‘CT.

  • John

    Sounds like a stoner.

  • Flarper

    IF Garrett’s claim was true that he doesn’t want surfing to promote alcohol, then that’s fine. It’s his opinion. BUT, Garrett wore a Peligros Tequila jersey at Todos and has surfed in other alcohol sponsored surf contest…He is scared of getting called out, and only looking out for ‘G-Mac Incorporated”. He burned Jesse Billauer, a paralyzed surfer, and Greg Long. Luckily Greg is a true waterman and survived.

  • Blackdiamond

    I smell a massive amount of bullshit. This is not about alcohol but about someone who has a calculated plan to ride this “wave” as far as he can into the mainstream ethos. Could have at least come up with a more palatable excuse than this horseshit. It’s an actual insult to those who have real issues with alcohol. The fact that Bill Sharp got the statement through his “wife” is all time. if you think that GMac doesn’t do this for the publicity, I have some lovely timeshares in Afghanistan I’d love to sell you.

  • http://parkhurstartworks.com Jimbo

    …because of a f-ng b e e r ? My bros and I have decided over an ice cold Pacifico that Garret’s just using a lousy excuse for not acknowledging the wave was a lot smaller.

  • Davidz

    haha…wow? I guess all the tough guys and big wave extraordinaires are hovering on this post? Please post a picture of your wave that makes G-Mac look so feeble. G-Mac is an awesome human. He’s been at it longer than most and simply doing it because he lives for it. Deeper than any of your feeble hometown heroes. If your RETARD COMMENTS were airplanes, this would be a busy airport….
    I’m a fan of Greg’s, but that’s changing because of all you SC crybabies.. boohoo…. go surf and shut up.. Most of the people on here think they invented the cutback, so what’s the point anyways?…lmao

  • Marc Wilde

    Dude you are so over thinking it. It’s money. Take it. If you don’t want to have a pop don’t. You’re a surfer not a preacher. Get over yourself.

  • Huervo Rancheros

    I honor Gmacs decision and hope he does well in the next chapter of mainstream surfing.

    Now that Gmac has caught the worlds largest wave what is next ? No one matters anymore if your catching your 25ft wave…Gmac will be the king of big wave surfing from here on out until someone catches a 200ft wave…ha ha ha

    But if GMac is out then who is in ? I seen allot of new entries this year, especially the females.

    Way to go girls and the next part of big wave exposure. The females will be the new super stars in the big wave paddle surfing. Females will take over the big wave exposure.

    Bye bye Mark Healy, Greg Long, and those who try to be relevant. Your out the door just like your sponsors are.

  • Dennis McClure

    I think that GMAC is way out of line here. Beer has been around before the Pyramids were built and was a beverage that was greatly enjoyed by the workers that built the Pyramids. I think GMAC pulled out because he couldn’t handle the scrutiny of his ride, whether it was 60 ft or a hundred feet; and I understand that some of these monsters don’t even break, they just feather in deep water and if that’s the case, that’s not surfing, that’s just riding ground swells like a Hobie catamaran. I know that GMAC is an accomplished big wave surfer and I admire him for that, but what is wrong with having a couple of beers after a hard days surf—nothing! Besides any good water skier can pull into a Portugal monster wave. But no water skier could paddle into a 30 ft Waimea Monster and take the drop. Paddle out, survive the closeout sets in fear and then paddle in to the biggest wave ever surfed and make the drop—now thats surfing. Obviously GMAC can’t take the heat so he should get out of the kitchen!

  • WTF???

    This guys a joke, he loses a lot of respect, gWACK really wah beer sponsor wah dont debate over my wave wah my wave is too good for the competition, your a selfish surfer no one likes you you almost get people killed your an ignorant fool that wants attention and has a narcissistic attitude, good day chump!

  • WTF??? really

    This guys a joke, he loses a lot of respect, gWACK really wah beer sponsor wah dont debate over my wave wah my wave is too good for the competition, your a selfish surfer no one likes you you almost get people killed your an ignorant fool that wants attention and has a narcissistic attitude, good day chump! Your pathetic

  • m2surf

    Garrett could have the respect of his peers, but alias he’s noted more as a gimmick.

  • Joseph

    Peahi produces the best, biggest surfable waves on Earth. His wave is gigantic, but yeah any waterskier with a few screws loose coulda gone. Im blown away by the media calling it this and that.

  • Hugh Berenger

    I read most of the comments and figure this one by “hawaiian” seems the most realistic-

    “all you guys that have nothing better to do than talk shit, shut up and go catch a wave 1/4 of the size.. get off your couch and shut the f#$k up”

  • richard

    with gm it has always been about self promotion! if it is about his convictions and setting a good example then prove it! if you mean it ,then you will return all the money you have ever won in an alcohol sponsored contest! otherwise it’s bullshit and just another pr gimmick!

  • Jimmy the Saint

    I am not Gmacs biggest fan, but there are a few comments on here I’d like to query. First, this wave will be assessed by the guinness book of records, who will be thorough in their measurements, so gmac doesn’t need to worry about what billabong say about the wave height, what guinness decide is the height will go down in history. Second point is we all know that gmac copped a lot of flack for what happened on the Cortes bank late last year. Is it not possible that he has taken time to reassess his approach to certain things in light if what happened? Let’s see if guinness give him the new world record whither he will accept the record out reject it due to guinness being the best alcoholic drink ever created!

  • Kiwi surfer

    McNamara, some advice. If you win, take the prize and DONATE IT to a worthy cause. Then grandstand about your “principles” and whatever moral watermark you want to set. But kids arent going to succeed due to Body Glove Surge or KonaRed either. When I realized you were pimping Wavejets, I was baffled……how many kids are gling to pop for a $6k surfboard? Hardly inspirational.
    You’re a hell of a waterman, just don’t get on the slippery slope of king maker when it comes to where the money and whos logo is attached, the sport is much bigger than you.

  • Clem

    “I do not ride for Billabong.” That says it all right there. It’s the money.

  • http://Www.3shamrocks.com Dave Markovich

    I’m not a big expert regarding the technicalities and drama behind surfing competitions sponsoring. On one hand Gmac is entitled to pull his wave if he chooses for whatever reasons he might have and you should all at least try and respect a person’s opinion whether you agree or not.
    Money is not everything in life and same goes to fame and prizes.
    He is a person, not a brand, and I respect him for his moral observation on alcohol and kids.
    On a personal point of view – the alcohol company is sponsoring an event, not pushing kids into drinking their dreams down the barrel.
    Drinking is, has been and always will be a matter of PERSONAL CHOICE!

  • banks

    Dont get it twisted… Garret has always been about one thing… himself. The reason he pulled out of the xxl is because his pr stunt was gonna be exposed. There is other images out there that prove the wave is not as big as everyone envisioned. Simple as that.

  • Dennis McClure

    Looking back at a previous year’s Billabong XXL awards, I noticed that Shane Dorian won in the Monster Paddle category with a 57 foot Behemoth at Peahi and also won the Monster Tube Award on the same wave. Now that’s what I call “real surfing”, no hype, no argument, no bull, just all guts and the skill of a true waterman, who is also very humble and knows how to handle the media, just like Kelly Slater. And there is nothing wrong with having a couple of beers with the bruddahs after a hard days surf!

  • Jfunk

    Anyone that lives on the North Shore or has spent any time there knows what Gmac is really all about. The “hawaiian” commenting probably is not Hawaiian at all. Gmac, his brother, nephew are menaces in the water. Typical non-hawaiians moving there and claiming extra Hawaiian-ess by burning people, group beatings and attitude. SUPping in crowded lineups, wavejetting, BS morality about beer sponsors, all represent what is wrong with surfing. Sion never beat his chest and said look at me. He just went, no cameras, press or no press, he charged for the love.

  • Jesse Sawyer

    I think this is bs. it Such a sick wave and a good shot and i think that more ppl need to see it. I understand that he doesnt want to be reped by a beer sponser but all thing aside a great wave and a sick thing that should be awarded. If he dosnt want the cash he should just give it to charity!!!

  • Walter

    Too bad he’s not more of a narcissistic sell-out. Babies and monkeys like shiny objects. Why doesn’t he? C’mon G-Mac. Don’t you want a trophy and a bag of peanuts?

    In case you didn’t catch my sarcasm, let me be clear, the whole awards scene is bunk. Yay! Let’s stroke each others’ egos and hand out meaningless trinkets! Maybe we can even pose for the cameras too. Then we can feel special.

    @Sebas Sidney – Politicians are the dregs of society. Slutty goo holes, the lot of them. Leave politics to them at your peril.

  • Jon

    In Garrett’s defense I would say he’s a read nice guy. It was the winter of 1996 or 97 I believe, I was on the North Shore and all my boards had been stolen while parked for 10min at Foodland. Then I met this Japanese girl staying at the Mcnamara’s place and she lent me her 8 foot gun to go surf Waimea Bay. It was 15 to 18 foot Hawaiian and Garrett arrived in front of me (I was on their property) with a dirt bike carrying a huge board.. He stopped sharply right in front of me (sliding) and said, “you’re not gonna ride this!! you won’t catch any wave… Take my board, that’s the one Curren rode last year”.. He didn’t even know me, and there he was ready to lend me a board on which Curren rode one of his biggest Waimea wave.. I remembered the ride from a video.. and thought no way! I don’t want to have this honor.. and even less break the board in half… Anyway, that’s how I remember the guy, happy go lucky, all excited to surf and live, and obviously not a stingy bastard.

    • Sky Wizard

      Surfers are a tribe that has their priorities in order.

  • gooben

    Lakey Peterson obviously drinks alcohol…they won;t show it on tv but why then would a 17 year old who claims to be Christian and promotes her church work be shaking a bottle of MOET on her win. ???