Owen Wright has kept a low profile this year. For anyone else, two quarterfinals and a semifinal appearance by mid season are what you would call a stellar start, but Owen made 2011 a very difficult act to follow. Last year, Slater and Wright’s back-to-back-to-back finals whipped the surf world into a frenzy, inciting whispers of a new rivalry on Tour. Wright quickly dismissed such talk, claiming that he and Slater were good ol’ pals. While Owen may be a serious threat to take the title, he knows that this is surfing, and you can’t take things too seriously.
Down at my old stomping ground of Culburra, my mates and I would get together for a BBQ and watch the Mighty Cougars play. Then we’d go back to my family’s house on the beach for some beers, music, and maybe a play in the surf.
For me, life is always going to revolve around the ocean and surfing. If I’m not in the water, I’m at my worst. I become agitated—some may say a little annoying—and my family may want to kill me.
A 6- to 8-foot left with no one out but me and my good mates, getting barreled off our heads. It doesn’t matter if it’s warm or cold water, the magic ingredient is big, hollow left barrels.
This heading should read “2 Days of Getting Punished.” The first day I was warming up for the U.S. Open, the waves were tiny, and Julian and I were coming toward each other on a wave. Somehow his board managed to hit me square in the head—I mean square in the head. You can see it on my Instagram. It was really funny. The next day I headed down to Trestles for a surf and smacked myself in the nose and jaw with the rail of my board. I didn’t move for about 10 minutes, blood was just flowing from my nose—I got KO’ed.
Love your life and look after both the world and yourself.
Sorry if I’ve dropped in on you!
Hall of Fame:
My family has always been there for me, from day one. I couldn’t have asked for a better crew. Everyone has always supported my dreams and goals, and helped out where possible. I love them all.
Dear Suburbia, Modern collective, and 3 Degrees.
Bounce: How Champions are Made by Matthew Syed
Born Fearless by Big Phil Campion
Mum’s nachos beat anything in the world, and so does her apple crumble.