Greg Long Responds

A follow-up about his Cortes Bank wipeout and Garrett McNamara

| posted on January 02, 2013

Moments before Greg Long's now infamous wipeout, Long and Garrett McNamara share the same wave. Photo: Glaser

I hope everybody is doing great. This message is to be shared with the entire surfing community. It is time to move on and focus our energies in a positive direction.

I have no hard feelings towards Garrett nor do I blame him for what happened to me that day at Cortes. I have seen the video of our wave, and acknowledge that neither or us were going to successfully make it. I can easily think of a hundred things that people did that day, including myself, that would have potentially put me in a different place and time on that particular wave. But thinking about such things is a waste of precious time, energy, and life. I choose to live my life in the present moment. Not in the past and down a rabbit hole of “what ifs,” “could haves,” or “should haves”. It was my choice to be out there that day, and in doing so, I assumed full responsibility for anything that could have happened. There are countless lessons to be learned from that experience for myself, Garrett, and the entire surfing community. I am confident these lessons will be taken to heart, and used to better ourselves as we all continue on our paths of personal and professional growth.

I would once again like to extend my heartfelt gratitude to all who were involved in saving my life. I sincerely appreciate everybody’s comments and concern for my health and well being. Rest assured, I am living with an even fuller love and appreciation for life than ever before, and will be back in the water soon.

Love, light, and an abundance of beauty and barrels to you all in the coming year.

—Greg Long

  • Marc

    In big wave surfing, two (or more) guys riding the same wave is as normal as shit… Keep up, Greg, hope to see ya in Jaws very soon

  • Jimmy the Saint

    The legend that is Greg Long continues to grow. What a gracious man

  • Dante Rondo

    Right on Greg Long ! Live live and strong ! And i think his intelligent and self-responsible statement can put an end to all the Garret haters out there ! Or all the blame game that was made of so much negative noise on the comment section !

  • Steven to Greg

    Greg can you share the “countless lessons to be learned from that experience”.



    Good on you Greg! Garrett hope you learn a lesson for 2013′ buddy …humble your self pal! You have been letting your ego out of the cage for years now.Your a talented big wave surfer no questioning that.. but you nearly killed your friend on that piece of crap MOTOR BOARD what the hell are you thinking a fricking MOTOR BOARD your a kook for even wanting to endorse such a piece of crap that is for riding lakes not waves….what are you not able to paddle like evryone else now?? get back to your roots GMAC paddle not this MOTOR BOARD clown act. Your so called publist girl friend should shut the heck up she has no idea what the surfing world is about.LET YOUR SURFING DO THE TALKING GMAC! Take notes from DORIAN<SLATER<FLORENCE these guys are humble and well spoken plus not dangerous in the big surf riding a MOTOR BOARD for everyone to look at you so blown!

  • Caroline

    Leave Nicole out of it, she was defending someone she cares about which I would hope would be done for you all. All the responses have been given…. go forward.