features

Surfing's 10 Commandments

So read the first few lines of Genesis I, from the Old Testament as interpreted by the King James Bible, history’s first written description of surfing. Small wonder it’s always been about faith with us. Because what is surfing if not a faith? So far as belief systems go, it’s got it all.

We have our Genesis:
“I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea…” from Volume 11, Chapter IX of Cook’s Voyages by Captain James Cook, 1777.

We have our Exodus:
“Acquaintances in the States have asked me why I bury myself in the Hawaiian Islands. The reason is because I like it…the coco palms waving in the clean trade winds, the colors of the water on the coral reef greet my eyes each day as I near the beach, and when the giant waves of Kalahuewehe surf are breaking white, far from shore, it means royal sport is waiting…” from Hawaiian Surfriders 1935 by Tom Blake

We even have our Proverbs:
“Remember, there are two schools of thought. In the first the wave is an incidental means of expressing one’s ability to others. In the second…a wave is simply a beautiful expression of nature and respected as reason enough to participate.” from What is Good? by Phil Edwards, SURFER, Volume five, Number one, 1965

With its spiritual essence focusing on devotion, sacrifice and reaffirmation, coupled with the essential element of humbling oneself before a higher power, surfing as a faith makes a lot of sense. What’s surprising is that more people don’t seriously regard it as such. And yet there is an obvious reason for this. Compared to almost every other major global faith, surfing lacks one key spiritual component: a list of commandments. The very basic dos and don’ts that, within each particular faith, constitute right living, right thinking, right devotion. Granted, when it comes to the Big 10, each faith system has its own particular quirks. In the old Hebrew version, for example, number 10, dealing with the coveting of thy neighbor’s manservant, ox or ass, may have been a bit more applicable in the year 1670 BC than it is today (except maybe in certain regions of Arkansas, Alabama and Mississippi). Even the tone has changed considerably. The contemporary Catholic rendition of Number Three simply states, “Remember thou to keep the Sabbath Day,” whereas the Bible’s original translation from Exodus, 21:15 warns, “Whosoever doeth any work in the Sabbath Day, he shall surely be put to death.”

Ouch. Well, at least nobody ever said anything about surfing on Sunday. But that’s just the point. Surfing has never had its own set of 10 Commandments. Until now.

1. I Am The Sport, Thy Stoke. Thou Shalt Have No Strange Sports Before Me
Which means that all these newly-coined “extreme” sports you hear about are just that: extremely not like surfing. Because surfing isn’t just an extreme sport, it’s an extreme lifestyle. Think about it: if snowboarding were like surfing no snowboarder would live within 100 miles of the coast; no skater would ever get a driver’s license. So occasional trips to the mountains for some snowboarding, or regular afternoon visits (blown-out afternoons) to your local skate park, or, in fact, any occasional participation in other sports is a good thing, surfers shall keep surfing and the entire lifestyle that it represents foremost in their minds, even when they’re not actually riding waves. If this means aspiring to play golf like Kelly Slater instead of Tiger Woods, so be it.

Related Posts:

  • No Related Posts

Add a Comment

By submitting a comment you grant SURFER Magazine a perpetual license to reproduce your words, name and web site in attribution.
Comments may be removed at an administrators discretion. Your email is used for verification purposes only and will never be shared.

Week in Review

Random happenings in surf for the Week of May 21. ...

Occy’s Third Wind

Can Mark Occhilupo re-qualify for the World Tour at 45? ...

Behind the Cover

Pat Gudauskas gets surprised with his July cover during band practice. ...

1 Ft. Budget

Nick Rozsa makes the most of one day near Ventura. ...

Bachelors: Part II

Are you one of Gilley's unidentified rippers? ...

The Emerald Isle

Irish surf adventure with Noah Cohen and Nico Manos. ...

Dingo Inside Waves

Dean Morrison goes in and out (usually) of waves on the North Shore. ...

California Cooper

Sydney's Cooper Chapman indulging in the benefits of life in Southern California. ...

Finals Day at the Billabong Rio Pro

John John Florence Wins Billabong Rio Pro, Parkinson Takes Ratings' Lead ... More

Day Three of the Men’s Billabong Rio Pro

Quarterfinalists Decided in Pumping Barrels at Billabong Rio Pro ... More

Billabong Rio Pro Completes Round 2

Medina falls victim to local wildcard, while Florence and Melling shine in poor conditions ... More

Fitzgibbons Wins Billabong Rio Pro

Sally Closes ASP World Title Gap with Two Events Remaining ... More

Day Three of the Billabong Women’s Rio Pro

Semifinalists Decided at Barra da Tijuca ... More

Lay Day Called for Billabong Rio Pro

With small one-to-two foot waves on offer, event organizers have called off competition for the day ... More

Day Two of the Women’s Billabong Pro Rio

ASP Top 17 Battle in Challenging Conditions for Round 2 Billabong Rio Pro ... More

Day One of the Billabong Pro Rio

Top Seeds Lead Opening Round at Billabong Rio Pro ... More

Swell

... More

The Boardroom to Honor Mark Richards

The Boardroom International Surfboard Show to Honor 4x World Champion Mark Richards ... More

Surfilm Festibal 10

Surfilmfestibal 10: program sneak preview. Thursday 31.05 screening of Skatistan.org Friday 1.06 screenings at the Aquarium, Huge Surf: paddle vs tow, ... More

A Paradigm Shift Movie Premiere

Surf Film Opening Night at La Paloma Theater in Encinitas. ... More

Operation Amped Surf Clinic at San Onofre

Vets and instructors in action on a fun morning at Old Man's. ... More

Sea Shepherd Founder Arrested in Germany

Kelly Slater Calls For Immediate Release of Captain Paul Watson ... More

Zak Noyle and Billy Kemper Win Sion Milosky Steep and Deep Photo Challenge

Zak Noyle and Billy Kemper embodied the spirit of the late-great Sion Milosky with a single image from the Banzai Pipeline, winning the inaugural Ste ... More