FOAM FETISH Clark Little's Insane Shorebreak Fixation
In the 1990s, Clark Little shook up the world by stand-up surfing Waimea Shorebreak with Cody Graham and other merry men. While Clark’s brother Brock was getting looney outside, Clark was the inside man, taking off on the gnarliest shorebreak in the world, and hopefully making it to the bottom and in the barrel until the whole thing collapsed on him.
Clark survived all that and went on to get married to the lovely Sandy and have two lovely children, Dane and Ally. Clark lives up Pupukea Road and sells quality plumeria, and other tropical plants.
It’s a good business and a great lifestyle but lately – like someone falling off the wagon – Clark has taken up his shorebreak fixation again.
Now he swims out to Waimea shorebreak and Ke Iki and photographs the gnarl from the inside out, catching glimpses of scenes that no mortal eye should be there to see.
In February we asked Clark about his foam fetish.
What are you, lolo?
I am a little hipper. Maybe that is why my nickname is turbo?
You had a fixation with actually surfing Waimea shorebreak, in the 90s, which you survived. Now you are photographing shorebreak. Is there a metaphor here?
I love surfing, bodyboarding, bodysurfing, and now shooting shorebreak. I enjoy the power and beauty of the thick bombs that roll through. Now I can capture some heavy moments without getting slammed. Well, most of the time!
When did you start doing this?
A few months ago I called [Brian] Bielman up to ask what to get for shooting good size shorebreak. He told me what to get and we shooted the shit for hours: photo stuff and stories.
What camera did he tell you to get, what did you get and what water housing do you use? How much did it all cost?
Nikon D200 with a fisheye lens and a SPL housing. I would say the damage for everything was close to $4,000.00.
I don’t remember you being a photographer before. Where did this come from?
My wife actually said to go out and get a shot for our house. I am sure she regrets it because when the surf is good I am gone, a lot. Also, it could be in my blood because my father Jim was a photography teacher for 22 years.
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