features

BETWEEN THE LINES: Two Surfers Unflinchingly Tell Their Vietnam Stories

Just because you have a great story to tell doesn’t mean it will be told correctly, and too often in the world of surf documentaries that potential never tips; the heart of the matter never quite reveals itself. That said, Between The Lines: The True Story Of Surfers During the Vietnam War delivers on its promise. Two surfers unflinchingly and with brutal honesty recount their experiences during the Vietnam War, and with the aid of John Milius’ spot-on narration, clever writing, and precious archival footage, a great story reveals itself.

“People don’t realize what war does to you,” said Farley. “I was at the point where I enjoyed killing and wanted to kill.”

Meet Pat Farley. Pat Farley abandons the California coast and surfing lifestyle that had consumed his childhood, and elects to enlist in the army, serving his country when called upon. Guided by Apocalypse Now writer, John Milius’, powerful narration, he rehashes his traumatic year (and a day) in combat, and explains the significance surfing had in both his survival and culture among R&R camps in Vietnam.

“People don’t realize what war does to you,” said Farley. “I was at the point where I enjoyed killing and wanted to kill. I had a story to tell, and I wanted people to know what can happen.”

Surprisingly, a prosperous surf scene emerged in the shadow of the battlefield. In one of the film’s highlights, a soldier recounts his dangerous quest to score perfect A-frames in Viet Cong territory – where he and a fellow soldier share a session of a lifetime. This confirms what all surfers have suspected to be true: perfect, uncrowded waves are to die for.

By contrast, Brant Page resolves to evade the draft and the war, opting to vagabond along the coast of California and Hawaii. There he learns to survive on a shoestring and with resourcefulness not too dissimilar from that his brethren had acquired in Vietnam. He too demonstrates conviction and courage in risking his freedom to live the life he wanted.

Said Page, ‘When I was in Hawaii I spent a lot of time alone and had very little. I’d get beaten up by the locals and had my car broken into…and I kept running this Bob Dylan song through my head “When You Ain’t Got Nothing, You Got Nothing To Lose,” – and that’s how I felt – I had nothing to lose and everything to gain.’

Aside from the hardships incurred on both ends of the draw, the film centralizes on themes of choice and autonomy.

Said Director of Photography, Troy Page, “The film shows both sides very well and we tried to give a very balanced view of the war. I see it one way, and someone else can watch it and see something else completely different. And that I think is the beauty of the project. We’re not trying to force a message down anyone’s throats. The viewer can take away their own message.”

This particular story was told for the very first time at Hansen’s Surf Shop in Encinitas, CA for a sold out crowd to benefit the Rick Thomas Counseling Center at the Veterans Village of San Diego. A live auction kicked off the event, in which an exclusive Jim Phillips Between The Lines surfboard was auctioned off for a hefty $3,600. In the true spirit of the premiere, the auction winner promised to donate the board to the Center for Veterans where all of the proceeds would also be donated.

For more information on Between The Lines visit: Between The Lines Official Website.

Related Posts:

  • No Related Posts

Comments

Robert Hagin
January 3, 2012 5:29 am

Where in the world is my old friend Jackie Dunn?

Add a Comment

By submitting a comment you grant SURFER Magazine a perpetual license to reproduce your words, name and web site in attribution.
Comments may be removed at an administrators discretion. Your email is used for verification purposes only and will never be shared.

Week in Review

Random happenings in surf for the Week of May 21. ...

Occy’s Third Wind

Can Mark Occhilupo re-qualify for the World Tour at 45? ...

Behind the Cover

Pat Gudauskas gets surprised with his July cover during band practice. ...

1 Ft. Budget

Nick Rozsa makes the most of one day near Ventura. ...

Bachelors: Part II

Are you one of Gilley's unidentified rippers? ...

The Emerald Isle

Irish surf adventure with Noah Cohen and Nico Manos. ...

Dingo Inside Waves

Dean Morrison goes in and out (usually) of waves on the North Shore. ...

California Cooper

Sydney's Cooper Chapman indulging in the benefits of life in Southern California. ...

Finals Day at the Billabong Rio Pro

John John Florence Wins Billabong Rio Pro, Parkinson Takes Ratings' Lead ... More

Day Three of the Men’s Billabong Rio Pro

Quarterfinalists Decided in Pumping Barrels at Billabong Rio Pro ... More

Billabong Rio Pro Completes Round 2

Medina falls victim to local wildcard, while Florence and Melling shine in poor conditions ... More

Fitzgibbons Wins Billabong Rio Pro

Sally Closes ASP World Title Gap with Two Events Remaining ... More

Day Three of the Billabong Women’s Rio Pro

Semifinalists Decided at Barra da Tijuca ... More

Lay Day Called for Billabong Rio Pro

With small one-to-two foot waves on offer, event organizers have called off competition for the day ... More

Day Two of the Women’s Billabong Pro Rio

ASP Top 17 Battle in Challenging Conditions for Round 2 Billabong Rio Pro ... More

Day One of the Billabong Pro Rio

Top Seeds Lead Opening Round at Billabong Rio Pro ... More

Swell

... More

The Boardroom to Honor Mark Richards

The Boardroom International Surfboard Show to Honor 4x World Champion Mark Richards ... More

Surfilm Festibal 10

Surfilmfestibal 10: program sneak preview. Thursday 31.05 screening of Skatistan.org Friday 1.06 screenings at the Aquarium, Huge Surf: paddle vs tow, ... More

A Paradigm Shift Movie Premiere

Surf Film Opening Night at La Paloma Theater in Encinitas. ... More

Operation Amped Surf Clinic at San Onofre

Vets and instructors in action on a fun morning at Old Man's. ... More

Sea Shepherd Founder Arrested in Germany

Kelly Slater Calls For Immediate Release of Captain Paul Watson ... More

Zak Noyle and Billy Kemper Win Sion Milosky Steep and Deep Photo Challenge

Zak Noyle and Billy Kemper embodied the spirit of the late-great Sion Milosky with a single image from the Banzai Pipeline, winning the inaugural Ste ... More