Shaun Tomson's words to live by
THE CODE By Shaun Tomson Buy it here. Shaun Tomson’s impossibly handsome visage has long ago been carved deeply into the pantheon of surfing’s elite. He need do nothing more than continue to surf Rincon well and make a few aloha-shirted public appearances now and then to stride off gloriously into surfing immortality. But in […]
Academia takes a long look at surf culture
Peter Westwick and Peter Neushul, both of them PhDs who teach and surf in Southern California, use the book’s nearly 400 pages to show how outside, landlubbing forces have made the surfer lifestyle possible, and how, in turn (but to a lesser degree), surfing has made a pretty big mark on mainstream culture all over the world.
Sam George directs a documentary masterpiece
“We were really under pressure—if we didn’t get the story right, we could never go back to Hawaii again,” director Sam George told the Tribeca Film Festival in an interview about Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau. Rest assured Sam, you got it right. You knocked it right out of the park.
A look at Craig Anderson’s long-awaited signature film, as directed by Dane Reynolds
The hype storm hovering over Slow Dance was undoubtedly fueled by the talent of the film’s star, Craig Anderson, who has more or less become the world’s favorite freesurfer over the last two years. But the anticipation was also in no small part due to the directorial efforts of Dane Reynolds—the man behind the most watched web clips in the world via Marine Layer Productions. For Slow Dance, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I assumed it would fall into a similarly indulgent realm. I was wrong.
And other things I learned in "Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman"
Tom Blake was a man's man, a jack of all trades and one of modern surfing's most decorated forefathers. This book, Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, is a comprehensive look at his life and legacy. This review is anything but. Whet your appetite on a few tales here, and then go buy a copy of the book.
Australian film is ostensibly about surf history; totally disregards surf history; is still really fun
First, let’s get this bit right out of the way: there is never going to be a mainstream film about surfers that will “get surfing right.” Hell, there are plenty of surf industry-produced videos that don’t get surfing right. So, dispense with that notion before you see Drift, and you should have no trouble enjoying yourself. This is, above all else, a pretty fun film that you’d have to go out of your way to dislike.
SURFER's Chris Burkard teamed with Keith Malloy to explore the history and progression of body surfing
It’s a visual journey through the lenses of Burkard and Malloy, a reminder that it is not solely the sport of surfing we love, but the art of riding waves in the ocean itself that we hold onto so dearly. “Rarely have I had the opportunity to photograph something as pure as body surfing,” explains Burkard. “It’s the most stripped down form of wave riding.”
Master stylist and recluse extraordinaire Wayne Lynch gets the biopic treatment
Griffin traces Lynch’s surfing life from annointed teenaged surf messiah, to reluctant, world-beating competitor, to wizened, hermetic sage. And the journey, I’m pleased to report, is an absolute joy.
Five surf-inspired brews worth a post-session taste
Surfing sells. Brewmasters know this and style some of their beers accordingly, but how do the surf-themed suds go down after a long session? I decided to take one for the team and engage in a personal tasting of a smorgasbord of beers, all of which had surfy names, or pictures of surfboards on the label, or some other means of cozying up to surfing's marketability. These five were the champions of my grueling taste test.
The photography of John Witzig illuminates surfing’s revolutionary 1960s and '70s
A chronicle of the Shortboard Revolution and a view of the quieter moments in between. Punctuated by the radical changes in design and performance that followed, and captioned by Witzig throughout with insightful observations and wry back-story, A Golden Age is a deeply layered time capsule that preserves the era of its focus.