New book looks into the science of "flow" and sports progression
Have you ever wondered why it took nearly a half century of surfing—from the sport's Duke-led resurgence to Da Bull's charging in 1957—for people to work up the courage to ride Waimea, but now it seems that big-wave barriers are broken down each winter? If so, then The Rise of Superman: Decoding the Science of Ultimate Performance is here to answer your questions.
Italian surf film stars Chris Del Moro, costars the Italian food scene
Italy is absolutely holding. Soul-stirring wine. Incredible food. Beautiful land. Equally beautiful people. Wonderful cars. Masterful artisans. And for the patient, there are even a few waves in Italy. Just ask Chris del Moro.
Shaun Tomson's words to live by
THE CODE By Shaun Tomson Buy it here. Shaun Tomson’s impossibly handsome visage has long ago been carved deeply into the pantheon of surfing’s elite. He need do nothing more than continue to surf Rincon well and make a few aloha-shirted public appearances now and then to stride off gloriously into surfing immortality. But in […]
Academia takes a long look at surf culture
Peter Westwick and Peter Neushul, both of them PhDs who teach and surf in Southern California, use the book’s nearly 400 pages to show how outside, landlubbing forces have made the surfer lifestyle possible, and how, in turn (but to a lesser degree), surfing has made a pretty big mark on mainstream culture all over the world.
Sam George directs a documentary masterpiece
“We were really under pressure—if we didn’t get the story right, we could never go back to Hawaii again,” director Sam George told the Tribeca Film Festival in an interview about Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau. Rest assured Sam, you got it right. You knocked it right out of the park.
A look at Craig Anderson’s long-awaited signature film, as directed by Dane Reynolds
The hype storm hovering over Slow Dance was undoubtedly fueled by the talent of the film’s star, Craig Anderson, who has more or less become the world’s favorite freesurfer over the last two years. But the anticipation was also in no small part due to the directorial efforts of Dane Reynolds—the man behind the most watched web clips in the world via Marine Layer Productions. For Slow Dance, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I assumed it would fall into a similarly indulgent realm. I was wrong.
And other things I learned in "Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman"
Tom Blake was a man's man, a jack of all trades and one of modern surfing's most decorated forefathers. This book, Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, is a comprehensive look at his life and legacy. This review is anything but. Whet your appetite on a few tales here, and then go buy a copy of the book.
Australian film is ostensibly about surf history; totally disregards surf history; is still really fun
First, let’s get this bit right out of the way: there is never going to be a mainstream film about surfers that will “get surfing right.” Hell, there are plenty of surf industry-produced videos that don’t get surfing right. So, dispense with that notion before you see Drift, and you should have no trouble enjoying yourself. This is, above all else, a pretty fun film that you’d have to go out of your way to dislike.
SURFER's Chris Burkard teamed with Keith Malloy to explore the history and progression of body surfing
It’s a visual journey through the lenses of Burkard and Malloy, a reminder that it is not solely the sport of surfing we love, but the art of riding waves in the ocean itself that we hold onto so dearly. “Rarely have I had the opportunity to photograph something as pure as body surfing,” explains Burkard. “It’s the most stripped down form of wave riding.”
Master stylist and recluse extraordinaire Wayne Lynch gets the biopic treatment
Griffin traces Lynch’s surfing life from annointed teenaged surf messiah, to reluctant, world-beating competitor, to wizened, hermetic sage. And the journey, I’m pleased to report, is an absolute joy.