Please stay in the damn water. It’s the only place you’re safe.
Creed McTaggart. A fresh-face out of West Oz, a laid-back bloke who listens to The Velvet Underground and has long hair and has for the last six months been perpetual putty for the hippest in surf.
Are new technologies compromising the integrity of the ride?
Wetsuit advancements, altered fin setups, new shapes, and superior surfboard materials changed the how, where, and when we could surf. Most would agree that these innovations have been beneficial, but is there a line to how far these advancements can go before the natural integrity of surfing is jeopardized? Until it no longer becomes surfing?
The Roxy Pro Biarritz trailer takes "women's surfing" to a new level
Usually, I’m of the opinion that if a girl (surfer or otherwise) is comfortable with herself and wants to pose for a racy photo or video shoot, and people want to pay her money for it, more power to her. But this isn’t a sexy editorial video or a promotion for a brand’s clothing line, it’s the vessel for sharing with the world what women’s competitive surfing is all about. And yet not a single wave is ridden.
Can East Coast surfers still be excited about hurricane season?
Is this “hurricane-friendly” mindset still OK, given the battering the East Coast has taken over the past few years? With devastating landfall hurricanes like Irene along the Outer Banks and Super-Storm Sandy in the northeast, should surfers feel guilty when desperately looking forward to the first sign of these oceanic powerhouses?
By pandering to our shrinking attention spans, modern surf films are losing their charm
With progression inevitably comes exclusion. Things are left behind, and we seldom stop to look back. We’ve moved on. Progressed. Matured, maybe. But nostalgia creeps in the wake of what was lost, and we become curiously aware of something missing. Pick any of the best modern films and you’ll see the same phenomenon: Bottom turn to air. Bottom turn to air. The occasional pump into a barrel. Bottom turn to tail throw. Cue lifestyle shot. Nobody’s paddling anymore. Nobody’s taking off, dropping in, linking maneuvers, or kicking out. It’s all been left on the cutting room floor. Deemed unnecessary. We never get to see that moment when the wave stacks up and the surfer decides to go for it. The complete ride in surf films is on the verge of extinction.
The recent swell at Teahupoo was a spectacle, but were the tow-ins worth celebrating?
The much-hyped swell event at Teahupoo has quickly become a real-time global spectacle. Whether or not that spectacle is worth celebrating, however, is something to consider.
John Florence's latest clip raises the bar, by going back to basics
We've been lulled into a stupor by endless clips of logos being waxed followed by mediocre sessions in head-high mush. Begin Again stirred something deep inside us: a memory of what surf films used to be like.
How to Save Pro Surfing (A Fan’s Perspective)
If surfing is so beautiful why is contest surfing so ugly? That’s the question I ask virtually every time I’m watch an ASP event online. Have you ever watched an ASP event online for more than 30 minutes at a time? If you have and don’t work directly for or in the surf industry, I’m surprised you haven’t killed yourself yet. It’s basically state-sponsored torture. Where the hell do you think the term waterboarding came from? Don’t believe me? A quick Google search for “ASP waterboarding” returned 2,860,000 results. You can’t argue with evidence like that.
An argument for surfing as a religion
Of all the wacky ideas I’ve heard in my life, possibly the wackiest came from an unlikely source: George Downing. A friend told me that at one time George was trying to make a serious bid to have surfing declared an official religion.
Does Your Wave Even Qualify As A Real Surf Spot?
There are two surf "zones" in this world: "surf spots,"and the lesser categorized "breaks." A surf spot comes with cultural trappings—history and legend—which transcend national borders and linguistic barriers. It is also, 99.9 percent of the time, a really good wave. A break is a beach or a reef or a physical outcropping of geography, man-made or not, where waves break and surfers ride, but without any cultural significance, without any distinguishing facet or global renown. A break is simply a place where swell meets shoreline and waves topple over. A surf spot, however, is a much grander entity.