EOS

5.28.14

EOS

Jim Banks, Tuberider Extraordinaire

Tribute to an Indonesian tube hound

This humble Jim Banks birthday-week tribute page has a distinct 4/20 theme. Not sure how that happened, exactly. I got stuck on that opening part of the vid clip, with Jim discussing his hemp-glassed board, and that led to the spliffy Aggrovators tune, and that reminded me of my all-time favorite Banks story (reprinted below), […]

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5.22.14

EOS

Ricky Grigg, 1937-2014

Last known interview with the Sunset master and Oceanography professor

Ricky Grigg, big-wave maestro and Professor of Oceanography, passed away yesterday. He was 77. Grigg was a standout in the early North Shore teeth-cutting scene of the late ’50s and early ’60s, before he took the plunge into academia; he earned a bachelor’s degree from Stanford, a master’s degree from the University of Hawaii, and […]

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5.19.14

EOS

Surf Cars: Lovable, Trashable

Surf rides were cooler when they were jalopies

Surf cars stopped being cool when they stopped being funny. Back when Elvis was King, the woody was the funniest thing this side of the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile. Surfers got woodies on the cheap because the oak panels on the back and sides were termite-chewed to the point of causing suburban social embarrassment. Seventy-five bucks, maybe […]

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5.15.14

EOS

A Tribute to Rail

Taylor Knox and his rail game are 43 years old

For 40-odd years now, I have danced and skipped and pan-fluted around our sport’s great power surfers. Jeff Hakman and BK, Simon, Kong and Tom Carroll, Sunny Garcia, Taylor Knox, now Michel Bourez—part of my lifework is to drop rose petals at their gnarly, reef-scarred, torque-generating feet. I won’t say that I have a favorite (not true: I save […]

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5.14.14

EOS

“Blazing Boards” 30th Anniversary

A review, better late than never

Chris Bystrom! Jesus, what a feisty bastard. Do or say something he didn’t like, and you’d hear about it, fast. I remember being on the receiving end of a Bystrom-penned flogging in the late 1980s, when I was in charge of the SURFER letters column. He didn’t approve of the magazine’s review for his latest […]

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5.7.14

EOS

Kemp Aaberg Interview

A surf icon. Literally.

Kemp Aaberg, possibly the nicest guy to ever set foot on the sands of Malibu, turned 74 earlier this year. I called him at his Southern California home and took him back, way back, to when he was a gangly teenager—styling gangly teenager, sorry Kemp—getting jostled around the North Shore in the back of a rattletrap […]

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5.1.14

EOS

Twin-Fins: They Mostly Sucked

You spin me right round baby right round

Just posted the EOS twin-fin page, which sent me back, reluctantly, to the mousse-tipped and cocaine-dusted years of my late teens. Here’s what I remember best about twin-fins. They mostly sucked. Yes, MR ripped on ‘em. Dane too. And young Martin Potter. The rest of us struggled. God, we struggled. Off the bottom, twins were as reliable as a wet paper bag. Top-turning, you get a […]

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4.29.14

EOS

Ian Cairns Interview

Cairns on early tri-fins and big-ass Haleiwa

Trivia time: Name the heavyweight regularfoot power surfer who got everybody’s eyebrows up and waggling at the 1981 Rip Curl Bells with his weird new three-finned board. Simon Anderson! Easiest question of the day! Next! Except no, it wasn’t Simon. It was the other heavyweight regularfoot power surfer. Ian Cairns. Kanga surfed a tri-fin at Bells that year in […]

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4.24.14

EOS

Best of “The Best”

Claiming Carissa Moore as The Best, and a quiz, for you

Hand me a gold-brocade jacket and baton, and I will lead the parade in honor of Carissa Moore. She is my female surfing ideal. On three or four different levels. Nick Lowe wrote a song lyric about “filling rooms with the sweet smell of success,” and Moore does that. (I don’t know this with total certainty, […]

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4.15.14

EOS

Brock Little Interview

"My job? I'm a surfer. I do nothing."

Haven’t talked to Brock Little for five years, give or take—no particular reason, just drifted apart—but we were pretty good friends for 20 or so years before that. Another one of those slightly inexplicable relationships I’ve managed to forge. Brock was a natural-born big-wave surfer, a street fighter, almost suicidal in his driving style. I […]

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