How does it feel?
Rolling Stone‘s first issue came out 48 years ago this week. SURFER cartoonist Rick Griffin didn’t do the logo for that particular issue, but a year later he produced the classic RS logo you see above. (Tina Turner at her nasty-howling best. Mmm, yes. Sweat, sex, and bourbon.) Rolling Stone in turn, along with 10,000
The lie is handmaiden to the truth
The Cape St. Francis sequence in Endless Summer is surf moviemaking’s perfect sphere. Our Pythagorean ideal. Nothing to be added. Nothing subtracted. I knew this right down to my not-yet-descended testes when I watched Endless Summer in a Santa Monica movie theater in 1967. I know it today, having run the footage through Final Cut
That's Spanish for "20-foot shorebreak"
If my nerve would just double or triple in size, like the Grinch’s heart when “Welcome Christmas” chimes up from Whoville, I would so love Puerto Escondido. I devoted 20 years to what we call the “shorebreak” at Ocean Beach, San Francisco (as distinct from the much better known outside sandbars), and Puerto is the
The Oldies are the Goodies
I came across a list of the five best interviews in surf last week, then reacted on the E.O.S. blog. I salute the choices. But a second perspective might not go amiss. Another viewpoint. And while this isn’t a competition…except, you know what, fuck that, of course it’s a competition. Presenting the real Five Best
Gabriel Medina had limbic-melting Norwegian black metal pumping through those headphones as he walked down the beach at Pipe to take that shiny world title crown. Nah, not really. Maybe. Who knows? Could’ve been Leonard Cohen. Could’ve been Sun Tzu’s Art of War on Audible. Medina’s pre-heat sound of choice, like Medina himself, is a
The ecstasy and the depravity
In the mid 1960s, Chuck Hasley and Thor Svenson fought a titanic battle for the soul of Windansea Surf Club, and Svenson came out on top. That’s my take. Who knows, I could be way out on a limb. Impossible to know for sure, at any rate. Hasley’s been dead 10 years, and Svenson—who knows.
California's first Pipe Masters champ
Joey Buran’s World Tour career was bookended by two Pipeline Masters contests. The first was in 1978, and if you were a teenaged American surfer at the time—even better, if you had at least a passive acquaintance with Joey, as I did—it was a shocker. This raggedy-haired 17-year-old high school dropout stoner beat Rory Russell
Combatter of '70s surf world seriousness
Surfing’s Great Humor Drought began in 1968 and lasted about eight years. Blame drugs. Blame soul surfing. Blame shortboards. Blame Pipeline! First thing we did after getting a good long look inside the tube was decide that our fine sun-kissed little sport was “heavy.” Heavy enough, anyway, to crush the fun. Yes, there were funny
One of Cocoa Beach's favorite sons
Death is in the hall waiting, but Mike Tabeling is as sharp, funny, honest and cool as ever. Despite advanced stage cancer. He casually interrupted our phone interview two days ago for a morphine break, called back half an hour later and picked up right where we’d left off. A month earlier, he posted
Freight train to the scars
Maalaea is one of those “world’s best” surf breaks that doesn’t sing to me. Too much wind. Too little water on the reef. Nothing but relentless, brutalist speed. Sam Hawk—Sam Hawk—made one of four at Maalaea. Owl, Hakman, Owens, Ho—every Hawaii-based surf legend from the Age of Nixon to the Summer of Azalea who flies