From SURFER to Playboy to Rolling Stone
For 25 years now, give or take, the surfers I admire most are those who came to the sport early, loved it, still love it, but realized at some point that to build a life completely within surfing is basically ill-conceived, and thus went further afield to create, experience, achieve. Bill Finnegan and Greg MacGillivray,
The impossibility of explaining a tuberide
Finally got the tuberiding page posted on EOS. Not sure how or why that one got put off for two years, although it appears that I’ve somehow managed to hold off on a few juicy items—maybe so I’ll have something to pull out of my back pocket when things get a bit dull. A little
Who caught the biggest Waimea wave ever?
This clip of Michael Ho is from Billabong’s “Surf into Summer,” and I think it was filmed in 1985. I edited “Summer,” and didn’t know who the surfer was, and whoever shot it didn’t know either. A couple years later Brock Little told me it was Michael, and that he (Brock) used to pop “Summer”
Except Sean Penn and Ian Cairns
Nobody had high expectations for Fast Times at Ridgemont High, least of all the Universal Pictures execs who nearly shelved the finished product before putting it into limited release in 1981—only to have Roger Ebert, America’s most famous critic, poleax it as a “scuz-pit of a movie.” (Gene Siskel probably loved Fast Times out of
"Fibrous half-domed lumps of thickened skin"
Not everything about the past is tinged with a golden glow. Unless you like golf ball-sized protuberances jutting out from where your knees and feet rub on your longboard while paddling. In the ’60s, “Surfer’s Knots” (or surfer’s knobs) were common (but weird) enough, that Time did a report on the things in 1965, reporting
The 60s must've smelled terrible
The list of sublimely romantic songs that involve smoking is bigger than you might guess, and for my money, Otis Redding’s Cigarettes and Coffee is holding down the #1 position. A man and woman, newly in love, sit at the kitchen and talk late into the night, alone and content and glad to let the perfect moment roll just a bit longer. “I would love
The Iceman cometh to win, not make friends
Cintra Wilson described two-time world champion Damien Hardman as “monstrously capable but cursed to be the Richard Nixon of the surfing world,” and if any other World Tour pro has been carved up that neatly I’d like to hear about it. In surfing, as with every other sport, a world title does not always confer
Ranking the top surfer + celebrity romances of all time
On the basis of tantalizing but less-than-conclusive evidence, Chas Smith wondered aloud recently if New York surfer Balaram Stack was perchance romantically linked with former supermodel Christie Brinkley, and declared that, if it were true, the Stack-Brinkley unit would be “the best surfer + model/actress/singer connection of all time.” Oh, Charlie. Your wordplay is zing
The quiet brilliance of filmmakers Greg Weaver and Spyder Wills
Greg Noll said he could not imagine a “shittier way to earn a living” than making surf movies, what with the handbill-hanging, booking the local Elks Club, selling tickings, and flogging up and down Pacific Coast Highway to do one-night stands for high-schoolers jacked on Miller High Life and Peach Schnapps. And unless your name
Remembering the famed San Diego boardmaker
San Diego boardmaker and entrepreneur Larry Gordon, who died on January 1st from Parkinson’s-related illness at age 76, was one of those people you appreciate more and more with age. Quiet, steady, low-key, dependable. Never showed up at work with a flask snuggled in his back pocket. Never had the IRS breathing down his neck.