EOS

4.11.16

EOS

Life Before GoPro

Tears and pain and revelation

I fight the good fight, daily and skillfully, against nostalgia. Usually it’s not much of a contest. New boards and wetsuits are always better than what came before. The extended 10-day forecast has all but killed the surf trip skunk. In 2016, we have Bill Finnegan and Rory Parker, among others, to help articulate our

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4.6.16

EOS

The Vanishing Phantom

And the disappearing act of the youngest-ever male 'CT event-winner

There wasn’t much to figure out about Nicky Wood’s surfing, which was fast and spidery and entertaining. As a person, though, Wood was a mystery. Quiet. Detached. Cool, for sure, but a little strange. I think it was Derek Hynd who nicknamed him “The Phantom,” and us World Tour punters of the ’80s and early

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3.24.16

EOS

Bells Flashback: Slater’s World

Kelly Slater recovered from his Baywatch debacle in '94 Bells Win

Kelly Slater was the most exciting thing about the 1994 Rip Curl Pro, but Dave Edwards, a 33-year-old unemployed marine engineer from Perth, gave the Champ a run for his money. Edwards had rolled into Victoria on Saturday afternoon, necked a bottle of Jim Beam, and left a good portion of his April dole check

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3.22.16

EOS

Mike Salisbury: World’s Coolest Surfer?

From SURFER to Playboy to Rolling Stone

For 25 years now, give or take, the surfers I admire most are those who came to the sport early, loved it, still love it, but realized at some point that to build a life completely within surfing is basically ill-conceived, and thus went further afield to create, experience, achieve. Bill Finnegan and Greg MacGillivray,

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3.14.16

EOS

Tuberiding: Less Said the Better

The impossibility of explaining a tuberide

Finally got the tuberiding page posted on EOS. Not sure how or why that one got put off for two years, although it appears that I’ve somehow managed to hold off on a few juicy items—maybe so I’ll have something to pull out of my back pocket when things get a bit dull. A little

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2.25.16

EOS

Michael Ho, Waimea Bay, 1985

Who caught the biggest Waimea wave ever?

This clip of Michael Ho is from Billabong’s “Surf into Summer,” and I think it was filmed in 1985. I edited “Summer,” and didn’t know who the surfer was, and whoever shot it didn’t know either. A couple years later Brock Little told me it was Michael, and that he (Brock) used to pop “Summer”

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2.22.16

EOS

We’re All Spicoli

Except Sean Penn and Ian Cairns

Nobody had high expectations for Fast Times at Ridgemont High, least of all the Universal Pictures execs who nearly shelved the finished product before putting it into limited release in 1981—only to have Roger Ebert, America’s most famous critic, poleax it as a “scuz-pit of a movie.” (Gene Siskel probably loved Fast Times out of

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2.12.16

EOS

Gross History: Surfer’s Knots

"Fibrous half-domed lumps of thickened skin"

Not everything about the past is tinged with a golden glow. Unless you like golf ball-sized protuberances jutting out from where your knees and feet rub on your longboard while paddling. In the ’60s, “Surfer’s Knots” (or surfer’s knobs) were common (but weird) enough, that Time did a report on the things in 1965, reporting

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2.1.16

EOS

Unfiltered: Cigs and Single Fins

The 60s must've smelled terrible

The list of sublimely romantic songs that involve smoking is bigger than you might guess, and for my money, Otis Redding’s Cigarettes and Coffee is holding down the #1 position. A man and woman, newly in love, sit at the kitchen and talk late into the night, alone and content and glad to let the perfect moment roll just a bit longer. “I would love

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1.21.16

EOS

Damien Hardman: Scalps, Not Love

The Iceman cometh to win, not make friends

Cintra Wilson described two-time world champion Damien Hardman as “monstrously capable but cursed to be the Richard Nixon of the surfing world,” and if any other World Tour pro has been carved up that neatly I’d like to hear about it. In surfing, as with every other sport, a world title does not always confer

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