"My job? I'm a surfer. I do nothing."
Haven’t talked to Brock Little for five years, give or take—no particular reason, just drifted apart—but we were pretty good friends for 20 or so years before that. Another one of those slightly inexplicable relationships I’ve managed to forge. Brock was a natural-born big-wave surfer, a street fighter, almost suicidal in his driving style. I […]
Bill Sharp, my college roommate, was a kneeboarder. Smart guy. Funny as hell. Later became editor of Surfing mag, and ran a surfwear company or two. But a crazy fucker! Would jump off bridges in the middle of the night, midwinter, fully clothed. Got a ticket once for speeding down an alley—in reverse. Rode a hot-pink-and-black kneeboard at […]
Christian Fletcher, the rebel without a cause
Above:An EOS Birthday tribute clip from last October, on Christian’s 43rd birthday. I’ve always had a hard time getting behind Christian Fletcher’s rebelliousness. In surf terms, no child in history was born to a better life. Surfing family, beachfront house, all the gear, all the trips, media, sponsors, adulation, you can imagine. And good-looking in […]
Here's to Richie Collins, the master of floaters
What everybody seems to remember about my 1989 SURFER profile on Richie Collins was that he spoke, on record, briefly but proudly, about jerking off. He was (and I think still is) a devout Born Again Christian, and thus wasn’t supposed to be having sex. But he was also a masterful provocateur. At some point during my […]
Matt Warshaw's October chat with Hobie
Hobie Alter’s new biography, Hobie: Master of Water, Wind and Waves, was published earlier this year. Written by former SURFER editor Paul Holmes, Master recounts the life and times of the hardest working man in the surf biz. And not just surfing, but skateboarding and sailing, and just about anything else he put his mind to. Holmes is also […]
A slice of surf history heaven
SURFER is proud to become the presenting sponsor of the Encyclopedia of Surfing (EOS), a relationship that brings together two of surf culture’s most cherished and authoritative voices. It’s a match made in surf history heaven. SURFER is the surf world’s flagship publication, long considered the “bible of the sport.” EOS, the surf world’s […]
Paying tribute to the 'Gull, our humble superhero
Phil Jarratt famously called Mark Richards the “wounded seagull” because of the way Mark held his arms and hands—that avian style that was (and remains) totally unique.
It's Art Brewer's studio. We just live in it.
Art Brewer’s reach is astounding. He knows (or knew) everybody, from Griffin to Stoner to Lopez, Rabbit, Curren, Slater, right on up to John John. And they love him. They may have fought with him a time or two, but they love him—partly because he made them all look so damn good, and partly because […]