EOS

6.2.16

EOS

Cape St. Francis vs. Kelly’s Wave Pool

The ultimate "Would You Rather"

Does the hubris of man know no bounds? Are we never satisfied with great waves? We surfed flawless, low-tide Rincon, and mid-hop during the rock dance up the beach we looked back toward the lineup and asked: “We can do better than that, right? Wave-wise?” We got tubed and tubed and tubed at Kirra, and

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5.25.16

EOS

Slater’s Wave Pool: Existential Crisis

Artificial waves are 75% less interesting

Surfing is interesting only because of waves. You’re a poetry-hating, anti-New Age atheist with a penchant for hardcore rationalism? Me too. But at some level, we know — we feel — that we’re riding ocean-transported sunbeams, and it is magical. It is what elevates surfing, and surfing alone, to the gold medal position on the

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5.19.16

EOS

Big Wednesday: Any Good?

Ranking the coming-of-age tale on the 38th anniversary of its release

Big Wednesday came out 38 years ago this week. Which makes it old enough to contemplate scheduling its first colonoscopy, gnash its teeth in worry over its roller-coastering 401k, and finally put the last of its sub-6’0″ shortboards out to the Craigslist pasture. It’s also a nice, easy, jumping-off point for a post about Big

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5.5.16

EOS

Pool Party: The Sequel

Who would you invite to Kelly's Wave?

What, a prodigious entourage flocking to Lemoore and crushing the internet yesterday, and you thought a list wasn’t on its way? Here’s my rapid-fire classic roster for Kelly’s Wave, based on who might plumb the pool’s best attributes. Simon Anderson This is a two-for-one. Simon is a late middle-aged surfer (62) who still has chops,

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5.3.16

EOS

Let’s Swing Both Ways!

Hot switchfoot action with your favorite surf legends

Who wants the same stale feelings all the time? Who doesn’t want a little sensory variety? To touch and be touched in ways that excite in their strange unfamiliarity? After walking the same straight and narrow path for so long, swinging over to the other side is a tall drink of expectation-defying satisfaction. Kelly Slater

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4.26.16

EOS

Over the Falls: The Glorious Ignominy!

Saluting the most sickening feeling in surf

Watch this sadistic little ditty a few times and you’ll notice a few distinct styles of disaster trips over the falls. There’s the “No, Wait, Shit, I Don’t Really Want This One!” (Most embarrassing). There’s the “High-line Barrel To Upside-Down Lipride Into Oblivion” (Awesome). I really enjoy the “Poorly-Thought-Out Lip Bash To Backwards Swan Dive”

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4.20.16

EOS

What If: Gerry Was Champ?

Alternative surf history ponders Lopez as '72 World Champ

Competitive surfing in the age of Nixon probably needed a rock bottom moment, a wreck to crawl away from, a lasting anti-example, and with the 1972 World Championships in San Diego, it got a beauty. What a bleak, luckless, monumentally stunted event. Like the five previous World Contests, the ’72 edition was conceived with good

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4.11.16

EOS

Life Before GoPro

Tears and pain and revelation

I fight the good fight, daily and skillfully, against nostalgia. Usually it’s not much of a contest. New boards and wetsuits are always better than what came before. The extended 10-day forecast has all but killed the surf trip skunk. In 2016, we have Bill Finnegan and Rory Parker, among others, to help articulate our

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4.6.16

EOS

The Vanishing Phantom

And the disappearing act of the youngest-ever male 'CT event-winner

There wasn’t much to figure out about Nicky Wood’s surfing, which was fast and spidery and entertaining. As a person, though, Wood was a mystery. Quiet. Detached. Cool, for sure, but a little strange. I think it was Derek Hynd who nicknamed him “The Phantom,” and us World Tour punters of the ’80s and early

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3.24.16

EOS

Bells Flashback: Slater’s World

Kelly Slater recovered from his Baywatch debacle in '94 Bells Win

Kelly Slater was the most exciting thing about the 1994 Rip Curl Pro, but Dave Edwards, a 33-year-old unemployed marine engineer from Perth, gave the Champ a run for his money. Edwards had rolled into Victoria on Saturday afternoon, necked a bottle of Jim Beam, and left a good portion of his April dole check

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