EOS

7.31.14

EOS

Jack McCoy: Auteur

Filmmaker; Tom Selleck impersonator; Occy savior

Jack McCoy’s face fills my computer screen (God love Skype), and once again I’m reminded that the man is imposing. Heading toward imperious. Yes, he has the easy, summery drawl that is the birthright of any postwar American-born surfer, but don’t be fooled. He is Patton with just the lightest glaze of Rob Machado. I […]

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7.23.14

EOS

David Nuuhiwa, Surf-Artist

The highest grade of smooth

“Riding waves is an art, not a sport.” God help us. You could float a battalion of zeppelins with the hot air generated by surfers waxing poetic about “the art.” Open any surf magazine from 1970, and the surfing-as-art fatuousness actually wafts off the pages in small clouds. Then again, David Nuuhiwa. We all enjoy […]

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7.22.14

EOS

Darrick Doerner: Too Cool

The big-wave iceman, cool to a fault

To this day, my 83-year-old mother makes fun of the way I used to worship Darrick Doerner. Lifts her eyebrows, arranges her wrinkled old dowager puss to approximate that of a know-it-all teenager, talks in a drawly early-’70s surf patois, imitating me imitating Darrick, and it is horrible. Horrible. Because it is so true. Darrick lived a block or two north of […]

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7.16.14

EOS

Shaun Tomson Talks J-Bay

"The choices just overwhelm people"

Looks like the surf isn’t going to cooperate for a while during the J-Bay Open waiting period, which is a shame. At least the first couple rounds had their moments. To get my Jeffreys fix the other day, I called Shaun Tomson—a starting player on anybody’s best-ever J-Bay All Star team—to talk about this amazing […]

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7.11.14

EOS

Sonny Miller Tribute

Cheers to the life of Sonny Miller

Sonny Miller raised the level whenever he walked into a room. All levels. The volume, for starters; Sonny had a big voice. The energy, the buzz, the metabolism of whatever space Sonny was occupying—it all went up a notch or two. It felt great. The way Sonny did it, somehow, it wasn’t really about him. Lots of […]

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7.7.14

EOS

Fred Van Dyke Interview

Addicted to surfing, Van Dyke nevertheless walked away

Surfing made Fred Van Dyke‘s life. And, as he says with a shrug and a remorseful chuckle, surfing ruined his life. Of the many things I love and admire about Van Dyke, his ability to live comfortably with his own contradictions is near the top of the list, next to his relentless honesty, and a […]

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7.3.14

EOS

Tom Curren Interview

Tom Curren's classic 1996 rant against the surf industry

Tom Curren, everyone’s favorite surfer, turns 50 years old today. I’m deeply invested in Tom Curren’s greatness as a surfer. So deeply invested that I’ve sometimes wondered, over the past 30-plus years, if his awkward turns on the public stage are maybe a kind of long-running performance art piece designed to shame the rest of us at the way […]

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6.27.14

EOS

Mike Hynson: Rebel Rebel

Endless Summer star turns 72

Mike Hynson was the second-most polarizing 1960s surfer, behind Mickey Dora. Those who would kneel before Hynson and kiss the ring on his well-manicured hand were roughly equal in number to those who would’ve liked to see his privileged little ass get kicked from Windansea to Big Rock and back. Hynson’s mid-decade peak in popularity was a few years before my time, […]

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6.19.14

EOS

Wipeouts

We all have 'em

“If you can’t have a spectacular ride, have a spectacular wipeout. It’s good for the sport.” I don’t know exactly when Martin Potter uncorked that pithy little bon mot. Having suffered through what seems like many lifetimes’ worth of Potter’s humorless ASP commentary, I wonder in fact if he actually said it at all. But never mind. The point stands. Wipeouts are […]

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6.16.14

EOS

Tandem Surfing

It takes two to make a thing go right

Tandem surfing was once very popular. Not hard to see why: people hoisting each other high above their heads, twirling their partners around before comically dropping them onto a hard fiberglass deck. There doesn’t seem to be a whole lot of tandem surfing going on anymore, maybe because it looks impossible. So Matt Warshaw made […]

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