EOS

10.13.14

EOS

Dick Brewer: Shaping Guru

Throwback interview to when shapers were wizards

Dick Brewer turns 78 today. Of all the shaping gurus, Brewer sat on the tallest mountain, had the most acolytes, wore the most beatific expression, and spoke in the deepest, most spellbinding voice. He was the guru’s guru. Lopez, Abellira, Fitzgerald, Chapman, among others, studied their boardmaking craft at his knee. Virtually every notable surfer […]

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10.6.14

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Dick Dale Rocks Ed Sullivan

The original surf-rock legend's Ed Sullivan debut was 51 years ago this week

Fifty-one years ago today, Oct. 6, Dick Dale played the Ed Sullivan Show. Dale looked pretty damn punk rock, with his greased-up hair, wearing a black T-shirt—every other rock act at the time, most famously The Beatles, wore suits and ties for the Sullivan show—and as soon as the camera hits him, Dale rears back […]

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9.30.14

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The Perfect ’70s Surfer

Terry Fitz + BK + John Peck = Sam Hawk

Give me the DNA know-how and a pair of med students in lab coats, and I would love to take a crack at building the perfect ’70s surfer. I would call him…Sam Hawk. Because that is the best surfer name ever. Now toss over a petri dish and a gene splicer, let’s get to it! […]

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9.24.14

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James Jones, Man of Mystery

Just don't call him "Booby"

James Jones is a mystery. To me, to you, to the rest of surfing. Always has been. Fantastic surfer, incredibly solid on his feet, courage and style to burn, two-time Duke winner, switchfoot ace, so at home in the tube he could redecorate the place, and of course the first great Waimea tuberider. Handsome, too. […]

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9.12.14

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Midget Farrelly: You Deserved Better

An overdue apology from surf media's past

The epigraph for Midget Farrelly’s 1965 autobiography This Surfing Life is brief. “When you’re comfortable, you’re dead.” The man was 21 years old, reigning world champ, and the toast of Australian sporting—yet he chose to introduce his book with that little nugget of gloom. Here’s what I’m getting at: The bitterness that would come to at least partly define Midget Farrelly in years to come—that was inborn. […]

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9.10.14

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The Ginja Ninja

Mick Campbell, the happiest runner-up in World Title history

Mick Campbell wouldn’t agree, but I think fate did the right thing by yanking a world title out from beneath his freckled feet. Remember? Pipe Masters, 98. Big surf. Showdown in the last event of the year: Campbell in first going into the contest, fellow Aussie and good mate Danny Wills in second, Kelly Slater third. Tightly bunched, all […]

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9.5.14

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Beauty from the Fire

Remembering Warren Bolster, one of surfing's most talented photographers

I caught Warren Bolster at a good time in his life. Maybe the best time. It was 1985, and he was halfway into a comeback that would make even the most dedicated Mark Occhilupo fan pause and say, “That is a damn fine comeback.” Warren was closing in on 40, detoxed, groomed, a bit leathery […]

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8.27.14

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Billy Hamilton: Stylemaster

Happy Birthday to Laird's dad and '60s surf god

A lot of rules don’t apply to people as cool as Billy Hamilton. Ain’t fair, but there you go. Self-contradiction, for example. Hamilton was so cool that he could lay down a fist-pounding-on-table anti-contest rap (“contests should not fit into surfing, and surfing should not fit into contests”), while at the same time cashing checks from big North Shore events—dude […]

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8.21.14

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The Kong Abides

A look back at the ultimate power-broker, Gary Elkerton

Gary Elkerton took 5th place in the 1984 World Amateur Championships, held in mostly crap surf at Huntington and Oceanside. The result didn’t matter. He was the star. By comparison, everyone else was small, pale, boring. Every time Gary set foot on the beach, the whole event simply tilted in his direction. It was the heyday of Kong, and while his best […]

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8.21.14

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Before It Was ‘Chopes

A romp through Teahupoo contest history

The 1997 Black Pearl Horue Pro, a four-star WQS event, was the first surf contest held at Teahupoo. It came so far out of left field the surf media didn’t even know what to call the break. Surfing hit on “Waterworld,” in what I think was a non-ironic tribute to an that insanely expensive nuclear bomb of a Kevin Costner movie of the […]

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