EOS

4.7.15

EOS

Occy: Zeus of Bells

Looking Back at Bells, Part III: Occy brought the thunder to the Bells Bowl, 1997

Put it to a vote, and I’d raise my hand in favor of relocating the Rip Curl Pro to, I don’t know, any one of the 50 breaks in Australia that World Tour surfers would actually travel to of their own free volition. That’s how I feel four out of five years, anyway. Every now

more

4.2.15

EOS

Michael Peterson’s Three-Peat

Looking back at Bells, Part II: The 1975 Rip Curl Pro

You think the 2015 Rip Curl Pro is a shaggy buffalo in terms of size and girth and lack of mobility? I ain’t arguing. But take it back 40 years. Bells ’75—now that thing was a beast. Opened with a 72-man trials event. Then the women’s comp. Then four separate rounds of the men’s main

more

3.31.15

EOS

Horan vs. Carroll, 1984

Looking Back at Bells, Part I

For the duration of the the Rip Curl Pro waiting period (and we could go the the distance, just like at Snapper; the forecast is grim), I’ll be posting vids, photos, and mag excerpts from past Bells events. First up, 1984. Not a great year for surf, but I can’t take my eyes off winner

more

3.26.15

EOS

Surf Bunnies and Sexism

The tortured conscience of an equal rights supporting SURFER editor

I posted the “Surf Bunny” page last week, then tied myself in knots for days over what you’re about to read. First off…I’m the killjoy who kept SURFER from doing bikini issues in the mid- and late ’80s. Surfing launched their “Swimsuit Preview” in ’83 (biting Sports Illustrated’s style), tickled the groins of their young

more

3.23.15

EOS

I Was a Hot 100 Backlister

Confessions of an OG Hot 100 member

For all I know, the selection criteria for SURFER Magazine’s 1982 Hot 100 was an amalgam of surf talent, completed junior college units, and rote memorization of NBA stats, in which case, by God, I was in the Hot 10 of the Hot 100. Based on surf talent alone? Ah, well, not so hot. Mark

more

3.17.15

EOS

The Beautiful ’95 Billabong Challenge

Jack McCoy's righteous bastard

Above, a humble remix of the amazing 1995 Billabong Challenge, held at Gnaraloo in Western Australia, and filmed by Jack McCoy, Alby Falzon, and Yuri Farrant, twenty years ago now. Two thoughts below to go with it: Had Tom Carroll participated, he would have won. Tom Carroll, Tom Curren, and Martin Potter were invited to the event, and all three declined. Potter,

more

3.11.15

EOS

Racism in Surfing: Yes? No?

Play the race card and you answer to Duke Kahanamoku

Ala Moana parking lot, summer of 1984. Back when Buttons could pull off anything, including this mid-afternoon photo, shot by Warren Bolster, which head-fakes toward the worst kind of racism, but is really just another riff in the nonstop improv comedy that was Buttons’ life at the time. Yes? Am I more or less on

more

3.4.15

EOS

Shawn Briley: Tons of Fun

The smartest kind of crazy

I love Brock Little’s quote about ’90s Pipe charger Shawn Briley. “Crazy people in general are stupid. Briley is relatively intelligent and yet he knows what he’s getting into, which in a way is even crazier.” I love it for that knife-flicking use of “relatively.” And I love it because it is the perfect description

more

2.25.15

EOS

Nat Young and the ’74 Surfabout

Pro surfing comes into its own

I am optimistic about professional surfing. Yes, my wobbly Twitter feed often says otherwise. When a tight world title race gets routed through feckless European beachbreaks, for instance. Or when Joe Turpel’s adenoidal phrasemaking worms into my prescription-fortified pyramid of calm. But the new men’s world champion is under 30 and Brazilian and polarizing and

more

2.18.15

EOS

The 1970 Expression Session

When good karma goes bad

The Expression Session, first held on the North Shore in 1970, then again in ’71 and ’73, seemed like a great idea. Perfect name, for starters, filled with soulful iambic bounce and zing. “Expression Session.” Breath those syllables in. Mmmmmm. Thai bud and purple Waxmate, am I right? This was a non-contest contest. An anti-contest.

more

Page 2 of 101234510...Last »