EOS

4.29.15

EOS

The Rocketmen

Forty years before GoPro, this is how you got a P.O.V. shot

George Greenough brought the inside-out tube view to the big screen for the first time, in 1970’s Innermost Limits of Pure Fun, and he did so with hulking 25-pound shoulder-mounted camera rig that by all rights should have popped his head from his slender shoulders like a cork during the first wipeout. The tube, at

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4.22.15

EOS

When Margies Was Raw

Nat Young, surfboards on fire, and hazy recollections from Margaret River in 1969

“It’s just so raw!” The WSL announcing crew, and the surfers they love, have lofted this description so many times this past week while talking about Margaret River that you’d think the place is a still-wiggling chunk of yellowtail, rather than an upscale, vineyard-covered, carpaccio-scented engine of tourism. You like it raw? Tell you what.

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4.14.15

EOS

Alan Rich, 1948-2015

Photographer, filmmaker passes away at 67

Surf photographer and filmmaker Alan Rich, who died of cancer last week at age 67, began surfing at Torrance Beach, in LA’s South Bay, in 1960. He was a little younger than—and very much in awe of—the Irons brothers, especially Ricky, who was on his way to becoming one of America’s best performance surfers. (Ricky’s

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4.7.15

EOS

Occy: Zeus of Bells

Looking Back at Bells, Part III: Occy brought the thunder to the Bells Bowl, 1997

Put it to a vote, and I’d raise my hand in favor of relocating the Rip Curl Pro to, I don’t know, any one of the 50 breaks in Australia that World Tour surfers would actually travel to of their own free volition. That’s how I feel four out of five years, anyway. Every now

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4.2.15

EOS

Michael Peterson’s Three-Peat

Looking back at Bells, Part II: The 1975 Rip Curl Pro

You think the 2015 Rip Curl Pro is a shaggy buffalo in terms of size and girth and lack of mobility? I ain’t arguing. But take it back 40 years. Bells ’75—now that thing was a beast. Opened with a 72-man trials event. Then the women’s comp. Then four separate rounds of the men’s main

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3.31.15

EOS

Horan vs. Carroll, 1984

Looking Back at Bells, Part I

For the duration of the the Rip Curl Pro waiting period (and we could go the the distance, just like at Snapper; the forecast is grim), I’ll be posting vids, photos, and mag excerpts from past Bells events. First up, 1984. Not a great year for surf, but I can’t take my eyes off winner

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3.26.15

EOS

Surf Bunnies and Sexism

The tortured conscience of an equal rights supporting SURFER editor

I posted the “Surf Bunny” page last week, then tied myself in knots for days over what you’re about to read. First off…I’m the killjoy who kept SURFER from doing bikini issues in the mid- and late ’80s. Surfing launched their “Swimsuit Preview” in ’83 (biting Sports Illustrated’s style), tickled the groins of their young

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3.23.15

EOS

I Was a Hot 100 Backlister

Confessions of an OG Hot 100 member

For all I know, the selection criteria for SURFER Magazine’s 1982 Hot 100 was an amalgam of surf talent, completed junior college units, and rote memorization of NBA stats, in which case, by God, I was in the Hot 10 of the Hot 100. Based on surf talent alone? Ah, well, not so hot. Mark

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3.17.15

EOS

The Beautiful ’95 Billabong Challenge

Jack McCoy's righteous bastard

Above, a humble remix of the amazing 1995 Billabong Challenge, held at Gnaraloo in Western Australia, and filmed by Jack McCoy, Alby Falzon, and Yuri Farrant, twenty years ago now. Two thoughts below to go with it: Had Tom Carroll participated, he would have won. Tom Carroll, Tom Curren, and Martin Potter were invited to the event, and all three declined. Potter,

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3.11.15

EOS

Racism in Surfing: Yes? No?

Play the race card and you answer to Duke Kahanamoku

Ala Moana parking lot, summer of 1984. Back when Buttons could pull off anything, including this mid-afternoon photo, shot by Warren Bolster, which head-fakes toward the worst kind of racism, but is really just another riff in the nonstop improv comedy that was Buttons’ life at the time. Yes? Am I more or less on

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