EOS

1.23.15

EOS

The Five Best Interviews in Surf

The Oldies are the Goodies

I came across a list of the five best interviews in surf last week, then reacted on the E.O.S. blog. I salute the choices. But a second perspective might not go amiss. Another viewpoint. And while this isn’t a competition…except, you know what, fuck that, of course it’s a competition. Presenting the real Five Best […]

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1.12.15

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Medina and Techno-Samba

You're welcome

Gabriel Medina had limbic-melting Norwegian black metal pumping through those headphones as he walked down the beach at Pipe to take that shiny world title crown. Nah, not really. Maybe. Who knows? Could’ve been Leonard Cohen. Could’ve been Sun Tzu’s Art of War on Audible. Medina’s pre-heat sound of choice, like Medina himself, is a […]

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1.6.15

EOS

Windansea Surf Club

The ecstasy and the depravity

In the mid 1960s, Chuck Hasley and Thor Svenson fought a titanic battle for the soul of Windansea Surf Club, and Svenson came out on top. That’s my take. Who knows, I could be way out on a limb. Impossible to know for sure, at any rate. Hasley’s been dead 10 years, and Svenson—who knows. […]

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12.17.14

EOS

Joey Buran: Pipeline Slayer

California's first Pipe Masters champ

Joey Buran’s World Tour career was bookended by two Pipeline Masters contests. The first was in 1978, and if you were a teenaged American surfer at the time—even better, if you had at least a passive acquaintance with Joey, as I did—it was a shocker. This raggedy-haired 17-year-old high school dropout stoner beat Rory Russell […]

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12.11.14

EOS

Mike Purpus: Surf Court Jester

Combatter of '70s surf world seriousness

Surfing’s Great Humor Drought began in 1968 and lasted about eight years. Blame drugs. Blame soul surfing. Blame shortboards. Blame Pipeline! First thing we did after getting a good long look inside the tube was decide that our fine sun-kissed little sport was “heavy.” Heavy enough, anyway, to crush the fun. Yes, there were funny […]

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12.3.14

EOS

Mike Tabeling: Cool To The Last Drop

One of Cocoa Beach's favorite sons

  Death is in the hall waiting, but Mike Tabeling is as sharp, funny, honest and cool as ever. Despite advanced stage cancer. He casually interrupted our phone interview two days ago for a morphine break, called back half an hour later and picked up right where we’d left off. A month earlier, he posted […]

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11.25.14

EOS

Maalaea: Faster Than Fast

Freight train to the scars

Maalaea is one of those “world’s best” surf breaks that doesn’t sing to me. Too much wind. Too little water on the reef. Nothing but relentless, brutalist speed. Sam Hawk—Sam Hawk—made one of four at Maalaea. Owl, Hakman, Owens, Ho—every Hawaii-based surf legend from the Age of Nixon to the Summer of Azalea who flies […]

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11.20.14

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JJ Moon: More Myth Than Man

The original surf media troll

JJ Moon was an inside joke that blew up into a national phenomenon. “Moon” was really Ned Eckert, a high school football coach and weekend surfer with a broad “What Me Worry?” face and an amazing Sean Connery-like carpet of hair across his chest and keg-shaped belly. Mickey Dora, Corky Carroll, Joey Cabell, and Mickey […]

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11.11.14

EOS

Doc Paskowitz: 1921-2014

A legend passes

It’s with heavy hearts that we announce that Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz has passed away. He’d spent the last days of his life surrounded by his family and friends, and with support pouring in from around the world through social media channels. The Texas-born, Stanford-educated physician leaves behind an indelible mark on surf culture. He helped introduce surfing […]

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11.4.14

EOS

To Hell and Back with Pete and Flea

Two of Santa Cruz's best, dealing with Santa Cruz's worst

In 1994, Peter Mel and Darryl “Flea” Virostko, both from Santa Cruz, became the main players at Mavericks. Stayed on top for a good long time, the two of them—10 or 12 years. Peter the friendly and smiling Gary Cooper-ish gentleman killer. Flea with his deliciously poisonous charisma, the guy most likely to make the […]

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