EOS

10.28.14

EOS

Everyday Dale

Three to the beach, everyday, for four decades

The new issue of SURFER just arrived, and I of course thumbed straight to my “Archive” column, settled into my black leather Le Corbusier LC3, crossed my legs, flecked a spot of dust from my sleeve, began reading, and a moment or two later chuckled softly and muttered “Warshaw, old boy, you’ve done it again.” […]

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10.21.14

EOS

Merv Larson’s Strange Trip

Wave-ski hero talks about his mind-blowing waveriding

Merv Larson was holding down the No. 10 spot last week on my Most Advanced Wave-Riders of All Time list, but having just rewatched Larson’s part in Pacific Vibrations, filmed at Rincon in 1969, I must reassess. The most progressive high-performance surfers at this point—Lynch, Young, Aurness, Spencer, Abellira—were still very much in the process […]

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10.16.14

EOS

Bow Before Mike Stewart

A hooded member of the Jedi Council of advanced wave-riders

Mike Stewart’s EOS page just posted, and to mark the occasion I will now attempt to triangulate Stewart’s woefully underrated surf-world awesomeness using Kelly Slater and George Greenough. Nobody else will do. Slater and Greenough. God and Buddha. On the thousand-plus-year parchment scroll of surf history, this is the kind of lofty company Mike Stewart […]

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10.13.14

EOS

Dick Brewer: Shaping Guru

Throwback interview to when shapers were wizards

Dick Brewer turns 78 today. Of all the shaping gurus, Brewer sat on the tallest mountain, had the most acolytes, wore the most beatific expression, and spoke in the deepest, most spellbinding voice. He was the guru’s guru. Lopez, Abellira, Fitzgerald, Chapman, among others, studied their boardmaking craft at his knee. Virtually every notable surfer […]

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10.6.14

EOS

Dick Dale Rocks Ed Sullivan

The original surf-rock legend's Ed Sullivan debut was 51 years ago this week

Fifty-one years ago today, Oct. 6, Dick Dale played the Ed Sullivan Show. Dale looked pretty damn punk rock, with his greased-up hair, wearing a black T-shirt—every other rock act at the time, most famously The Beatles, wore suits and ties for the Sullivan show—and as soon as the camera hits him, Dale rears back […]

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9.30.14

EOS

The Perfect ’70s Surfer

Terry Fitz + BK + John Peck = Sam Hawk

Give me the DNA know-how and a pair of med students in lab coats, and I would love to take a crack at building the perfect ’70s surfer. I would call him…Sam Hawk. Because that is the best surfer name ever. Now toss over a petri dish and a gene splicer, let’s get to it! […]

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9.24.14

EOS

James Jones, Man of Mystery

Just don't call him "Booby"

James Jones is a mystery. To me, to you, to the rest of surfing. Always has been. Fantastic surfer, incredibly solid on his feet, courage and style to burn, two-time Duke winner, switchfoot ace, so at home in the tube he could redecorate the place, and of course the first great Waimea tuberider. Handsome, too. […]

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9.12.14

EOS

Midget Farrelly: You Deserved Better

An overdue apology from surf media's past

The epigraph for Midget Farrelly’s 1965 autobiography This Surfing Life is brief. “When you’re comfortable, you’re dead.” The man was 21 years old, reigning world champ, and the toast of Australian sporting—yet he chose to introduce his book with that little nugget of gloom. Here’s what I’m getting at: The bitterness that would come to at least partly define Midget Farrelly in years to come—that was inborn. […]

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9.10.14

EOS

The Ginja Ninja

Mick Campbell, the happiest runner-up in World Title history

Mick Campbell wouldn’t agree, but I think fate did the right thing by yanking a world title out from beneath his freckled feet. Remember? Pipe Masters, 98. Big surf. Showdown in the last event of the year: Campbell in first going into the contest, fellow Aussie and good mate Danny Wills in second, Kelly Slater third. Tightly bunched, all […]

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9.5.14

EOS

Beauty from the Fire

Remembering Warren Bolster, one of surfing's most talented photographers

I caught Warren Bolster at a good time in his life. Maybe the best time. It was 1985, and he was halfway into a comeback that would make even the most dedicated Mark Occhilupo fan pause and say, “That is a damn fine comeback.” Warren was closing in on 40, detoxed, groomed, a bit leathery […]

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