EOS

9.20.16

EOS

Does This Donut Smell Funny?

Best surf pranks ever

I’m going to get some of the details wrong, but runner-up best prank, surf industry division, goes like this. Surfboard magnate Dewey Weber had a beloved dog, a German Shepherd mix, all white, named “Whitey.” Dewey would call Whitey into the Weber Surfboards team van and take him to Hermosa Pier, Malibu, Rincon. Back at

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9.12.16

EOS

The Soul of Tandem

What do soul singers and tandem surfers have in common?

Off the top of my head, I can’t think of a single Golden Age R&B heavyweight who didn’t get their start in the church. Little Richard, James Brown, Sam Cook, Otis Redding, Marvin Gaye, Al Green, Isaac Hayes—all raised their sweet young unchanged voices to God, most went on to gospel groups, and then they

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8.31.16

EOS

Eve Does Five Summer Stories

Eve Babitz, nude chess enthusiast, surf writer

Eve Babitz is the 20-year-old Los Angeles ingénue you see above, playing state-of-nature chess in 1963 with French artist Marcel Duchamp. Babitz was many things in the ’60s and ’70s. Goddaughter to composer Igor Stravinsky. Laughing sexual adventuress. An artist who made gorgeous album covers for Buffalo Springfield and The Byrds. Most famously, Babitz was

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8.23.16

EOS

Chopes: Out Come the Freaks

The monster rears its head for the first time

I sliced and diced the Teahupoo bits from 1997’s Quiksilver Country to make the edit you see here. Also sliced and diced “Devil’s Haircut,” by Beck, who built that monster truck of a song by slicing and dicing Van Morrison’s “I Can Only Give You Everything.” Steal from the best and your job is three-quarters

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8.12.16

EOS

Oh Larry! Where Is Thy Sting?

Stingers. Loved 'em. Here's why.

Stingers. I loved ’em. And yes, I know Ben Aipa called it a “sting,” and we’ve been saying it wrong for 40 years now, but that’s the wonderful thing about the English language—if it’s wrong for long enough, it’s right. I had five or six stingers, beginning around 1976, all shaped by Pat Ryan of

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8.7.16

EOS

Remembering Farrelly

A look at the enduring impact of surfing's first World Champion, the late Midget Farrelly

Midget Farrelly, world-champion, boardmaker, and iconoclast, died yesterday at age 71 from stomach cancer. He was a beautiful wave-rider, controlled and polished but with a dynamic be-bopping flair. After making a close study of California power surfer Phil Edwards in the late ’50s and early ’60s, Farrelly trimmed away most of the Edwardian style flourishes

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8.1.16

EOS

Stoke Up Your Monday

Nothing wrong with a quick surfy pick-me-up

Perhaps where you live, it isn’t literally the coldest place in America today (Seriously, 58 degrees in San Francisco, lowest temp in continental U.S. for what seems like the sixty-millionth day in a row). Maybe it’s sunny and warm and the waves are plentiful and life is softly singing sweet nothings in your ear. It’s

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7.21.16

EOS

Bill Hamilton Was Tougher Than You

Courage, style, and bull wranglin' bravado

Hit “play,” and freeze at 1:13. If you’re a wave rider of a certain age (old), you should experience a small thrill of horror. That’s Billy Hamilton, surfing’s own Jesus of Cool, feet up and auguring into the dusty French pavers during the 1968 Fetes De Bayonne bull run. I’m no spinal surgeon, but looks

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7.12.16

EOS

Burned by the Worst Surf Racks Ever

A cathartic ode to Bay Standard's terrible "Aloha" racks

There are objects from surf culture’s collective deep past that I hold near and dear. The Evolution handbill. The first O’Neill logo. Mike Doyle’s beard, the Duke Invitational trophy, Jackie Dunn’s white-on-red Lightning Bolt pintail. Every issue of SURFER from March ’69 to February ’72 (also known as the High Kampion era, and yes, there

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6.30.16

EOS

Airshows: Remember When?

Airshows brought the punk to the 'CT

I defend the WCT just as quickly as I prick its haunches with my tiny arrows of Twitter fire. Why? Because I’ve been around long enough to witness just about every alternative surf competition format, and compared to what the ‘CT is now serving up, they all sucked. The venerable Expression Session, for example. Great

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