"Surfing in Nixonland" is a charming bit of OC surf memoir
The New York Times rarely lowers itself to wallow in surfing’s tiny section of the pop culture pool, but they recently published a great little memoir by David Morris, a former Marine who began surfing Cottons in the mid ’00s. Morris uses his experience there as a jumping-off point to ponder the clash of civilizations
When will we right the upside-down logic of modern surfboard tech?
I know this sounds like a stretch, but even if you aren’t an auto-racing fan, the sport still manages to touch your life every time you drive a car. Pardon the gearhead-speak for a moment, but useful and often lifesaving advances like disc brakes, radial tires, fast-shifting automatic transmissions, and traction control—among many other bits
Baja, here you come with lunchtime conversion kit
Do you have the #vanlife desire and the #vanlife van but not the #vanlife DIY skills to #vanlife properly? Well, click right this way for an easy #vanlife solution. Wayfarer Vans, which, whether they intended it or not, is a name mashup of two of surfing’s most iconic bits of fashion, has figured out an
Don't knock it 'til you've tried it
Loosen your boardshorts, untie those bikini straps, undo whatever you have to undo to slink out of a one-piece—it’s National Nude Day! The “holiday” started in New Zealand in 1976, though nobody apparently really knows why, or how, but it exists anyway, overshadowed in importance—and just barely—by France’s Bastille Day. Speaking of Bastille Day, this
Philosophy of J-Bay Dirtbagging 101 with Bruce Gold
Surf J-Bay all morning, pluck oysters all afternoon, sell ’em in the pub that night, repeat. I don’t know much about Bruce Gold here, but I do know that he just might be my new favorite surfer. That syrupy sweet South African accent, that love for his battered cat Scootergirl, the hands on the hips
Spend even more time glued to your phone with "The Journey"
Ever hear of iHunch? Does iPosture ring a bell anywhere? Funny names for the semi-serious neck and back posture problems we’re all developing from craning our domes over the lords of our lives—our precious, precious smartphones. Well, as if you needed yet another thing gluing your face to your AMOLED screen, along comes “The Journey,” a surf
"Brainspot" your way to the Mavericks Bowl
No better fix than a quick fix, amirite? Who wants to learn to overcome fears with plodding care? I sure as hell don’t. We’ve got a limited number of trips around the sun here, so spending years working up the courage to confront pit-of-the-soul terrors of man-eating waves sounds dreadfully boring. As does dropping good
Kelly Slater is known as the best surfer in the world. But will anyone ever agree on that title again?
If you’re the sort of surfer who takes time to read this magazine and aren’t simply flipping through the pages to drool over the photos, then I’m confident I can sketch a spot-on picture of you, dear reader. You’re a man, roughly 31 years old. You’re a goofyfoot, and you surf twice a week. You
Can surf shops survive the online shopping revolution?
As the Internet continues its inexorable march, stomping all the best parts of human civilization into dust in the name of convenience, one of the first casualties littering the road to the Matrix will surely be the independent retailer. As if the looming specter of big-box chains like Walmart and Costco Pied Pipering the middle
Remember Bradshaw's Biggest Wednesday Outer Logs mission? It's 18 years old, today
Remember “Biggest Wednesday”? January 28th, 1998? Ken Bradshaw whipped into the Biggest Wave Ever Surfed™ 18 years ago today, riding not only a 50-foot Outer Log Cabins behemoth, but also the crest of a tow-surfing wave that would—outside of Nazare—come crashing down in a heap of disinterest within the surf world in just a handful of