The Culture

9.8.16

The Culture

When John Severson Stared Down Pres. Nixon

"Surfing in Nixonland" is a charming bit of OC surf memoir

The New York Times rarely lowers itself to wallow in surfing’s tiny section of the pop culture pool, but they recently published a great little memoir by David Morris, a former Marine who began surfing Cottons in the mid ’00s. Morris uses his experience there as a jumping-off point to ponder the clash of civilizations

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9.6.16

The Culture

Trickle-Up Surfonomics

When will we right the upside-down logic of modern surfboard tech?

I know this sounds like a stretch, but even if you aren’t an auto-racing fan, the sport still manages to touch your life every time you drive a car. Pardon the gearhead-speak for a moment, but useful and often lifesaving advances like disc brakes, radial tires, fast-shifting automatic transmissions, and traction control—among many other bits

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8.24.16

The Culture

Van to #Vanlife in Just 30 Minutes

Baja, here you come with lunchtime conversion kit

Do you have the #vanlife desire and the #vanlife van but not the #vanlife DIY skills to #vanlife properly? Well, click right this way for an easy #vanlife solution. Wayfarer Vans, which, whether they intended it or not, is a name mashup of two of surfing’s most iconic bits of fashion, has figured out an

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7.14.16

The Culture

Surf Naked: It’s National Nude Day

Don't knock it 'til you've tried it

Loosen your boardshorts, untie those bikini straps, undo whatever you have to undo to slink out of a one-piece—it’s National Nude Day! The “holiday” started in New Zealand in 1976, though nobody apparently really knows why, or how, but it exists anyway, overshadowed in importance—and just barely—by France’s Bastille Day. Speaking of Bastille Day, this

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6.27.16

The Culture

Bruce Gold: Surf Hippy Extraordinaire

Philosophy of J-Bay Dirtbagging 101 with Bruce Gold

Surf J-Bay all morning, pluck oysters all afternoon, sell ’em in the pub that night, repeat. I don’t know much about Bruce Gold here, but I do know that he just might be my new favorite surfer. That syrupy sweet South African accent, that love for his battered cat Scootergirl, the hands on the hips

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6.22.16

The Culture

Return of the Surf Video Game

Spend even more time glued to your phone with "The Journey"

Ever hear of iHunch? Does iPosture ring a bell anywhere? Funny names for the semi-serious neck and back posture problems we’re all developing from craning our domes over the lords of our lives—our precious, precious smartphones. Well, as if you needed yet another thing gluing your face to your AMOLED screen, along comes “The Journey,” a surf

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5.31.16

The Culture

(Maybe) Conquer Big-Wave Fears in One Hour!

"Brainspot" your way to the Mavericks Bowl

No better fix than a quick fix, amirite? Who wants to learn to overcome fears with plodding care? I sure as hell don’t. We’ve got a limited number of trips around the sun here, so spending years working up the courage to confront pit-of-the-soul terrors of man-eating waves sounds dreadfully boring. As does dropping good

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3.30.16

The Culture

The Last Best Surfer

Kelly Slater is known as the best surfer in the world. But will anyone ever agree on that title again?

If you’re the sort of surfer who takes time to read this magazine and aren’t simply flipping through the pages to drool over the photos, then I’m confident I can sketch a spot-on picture of you, dear reader. You’re a man, roughly 31 years old. You’re a goofyfoot, and you surf twice a week. You

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3.24.16

The Culture

Long Live The Surf Shop

Can surf shops survive the online shopping revolution?

As the Internet continues its inexorable march, stomping all the best parts of human civilization into dust in the name of convenience, one of the first casualties littering the road to the Matrix will surely be the independent retailer. As if the looming specter of big-box chains like Walmart and Costco Pied Pipering the middle

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1.28.16

The Culture

Ken Bradshaw and the Tow-Surf Cul-de-sac

Remember Bradshaw's Biggest Wednesday Outer Logs mission? It's 18 years old, today

Remember “Biggest Wednesday”? January 28th, 1998? Ken Bradshaw whipped into the Biggest Wave Ever Surfed™ 18 years ago today, riding not only a 50-foot Outer Log Cabins behemoth, but also the crest of a tow-surfing wave that would—outside of Nazare—come crashing down in a heap of disinterest within the surf world in just a handful of

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