The highest highs and lowest lows of cold-water exploration
Debunking surfing's faux-spirituality
For decades now, we’ve had our heads so far up our own asses that we’ve largely forgotten that surfing is just leisurely, pointless fun.
Does progression matter in surfing?
It is worth reflecting on the fact that as surfing has grown and evolved since Duke kick-started the sport’s revival a century ago, little seems to have changed when it comes to our pure enjoyment.
An East Coast legend passes
Mike Tabeling told me last week that he was hoping to make it to Christmas. I didn’t know the man well, but my sense is that this is one of the very few instances in which he came up short. A rich life, full of waves, laughter, adventure, love. I’ll leave it to those who […]
The Tour says goodbye
“I almost felt more sorry for the guy I beat than I was stoked for winning,” Travis Logie told the ASP last month when he announced his decision to retire. It’s just that sort of camaraderie, built over 10 years on Tour, that was on display when he was carried up the beach at Pipe […]
The New Yorker dives in
If even those of us who are longtime surfers, but not big-wave hellions (me, certainly) are fascinated by how the heavywater crew can survive the beatings they take, imagine how amazed the general, non-surfing public must be. The New Yorker, of all publications, are as befuddled as anybody, so they’ve waded into the developments surrounding […]
Marin County surf camp hosts Sunnydale inner city crew
The past few years, Ian Glover and the rest of the crew at Marin County’s Big Dog Surf Camp (with help from San Francisco shaper Tim Gras and the TURF Community Development organization) have spent a day sharing the surf with kids from Sunnydale—one of San Francisco’s most violent housing projects. For most of these […]
Curbing that surf contest waste
When thousands of visitors descend on a surf contest site, they leave behind a ton of trash in their wake. And it takes a massive amount of energy to run a World Tour event, from fueling the generators that power the electricity used to produce the webcasts, to flying staffmembers—not to mention that giant wooden […]
A fresh cut of fresh cuts
Last year, we ran a charming little edit called “Cutback to California.” It featured a Japanese barber/longboard enthusiast named Karu, who traveled out to California, cut a little hair, and surfed some little waves. This time Karu hit the Australian shore, scissors and log in tow. He even got to give Mark Richards a trim. […]
Surfer/filmmaker turns attention to Hawaii's battle with GMO crops
If you’ve paid much attention to Hawaiian politics lately, you know that the island’s rural communities are in a battle against Big Ag’s experimentation with GMO crops and advanced pesticides. This battle recently caught the attention of pro surfer/filmmaker Cyrus Sutton, who’s been surf tripping from his native California to Hawaii since his teens. Lately, […]