Surfing compliments can be curious. There’s the old “that-dude’s-got-a-screw-loose”, which we use to compliment brave surfers, but under analysis, puts one’s mental health in question.
And then there’s my personal favorite, “knucklehead”, which would normally be used to put one’s intellect up for debate.
So please understand that when I refer to Clark Little as a complete knucklehead, I do so with high praise indeed. As many people know, shallow water and shore pound present the biggest threat to a surfer’s health, and no one on Earth puts their spinal column at more consistent risk than the daring Mr. Little. As this photo will attest, even before he was a celebrated shorebreak lens man, Clark was a knucklehead extraordinaire.