Ask a Local

| posted on April 29, 2011

My friends and I video each other’s sessions and, a lot of the time when I think I’m ripping, I just end up looking like a kook. What do I do? —Tim Neeley, San Francisco, CA

The short answer here is: stay the course. Pain, even in the form of watching yourself flail through a four-stage cutback while your buddies snicker, is usually good for you. “Video has helped me in a huge way,” says pro surfer/filmmaker/freesurf-freakshow Jamie O’Brien. “When I was a kid I would watch tape and realize so much about my surfing. Just with the tube, trying to stay in longer. I’d sit and ask: ‘Why am I coming out with the spit? How can I be deeper?’ It makes you a better surfer. You can change things when you can see the problem. It can be hard to fix your style, but you can always adjust the way you attack the lip or pull into the barrel.”

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