How California surfer/artist Kevin Ancell fought his way back from the brink of death
From the outside, Kevin Ancell’s studio doesn’t look like much. It’s crammed into a series of nondescript warehouses, lost in the bland maze of Costa Mesa’s industrial sprawl. But when Ancell lifts the corrugated steel door to his workspace, an entirely different world presents itself. Enormous oil paintings, intricate sculptures, abalone-inlaid surfboards, and all manner
Tear a hole in the spacetime continuum with the help of some reissued surf vinyl
Remember the good ol’ days when there were fewer fins on surfboards, airbrushes looked like psychedelic dreams, and surf checks involved looking out a cloudy van window whilst Zeppelin blared from the stereo? Me neither. Sadly, I was also born too late and missed the much-romanticized era of surfing during the ’70s and early ’80s.
40, San Clemente, California
Having a kid changes your life. Suddenly you find yourself telling someone else what to do. It’s weird going to the beach and watching them instead of just psyching to get out and surf. If you’re surfing because of your ego, to impress people, to make money, it’s never going to amount to anything real and you’ll never be satisfied. But if
Jamie O'Brien lights himself on fire and gets tubed in Tahiti
Part surfer, part stuntman, Jamie O’Brien never fails to come up with new and terrifying ways to nearly kill himself in the ocean. For the latest episode of his web series, J.O.B. teamed up with a Hollywood stunt coordinator to create a flame-retardant wetsuit, light himself on fire, and pull into a barrel at Teahupoo.
Surfboard collector Mark "Buggs" Arico discusses a few of his prized possessions
“It all started with one of Tom Curren’s boards. I was picking up some boards for a surf trip and saw it at my friend’s shop: a 1980s 6’5” Al Merrick hand-shaped for Curren. I rode that board on my trip, and it was such an amazing feeling. As you get older and start reflecting
Can a three-day course teach you to survive big waves?
The Salvation Army Aquatics Center in San Diego is hardly synonymous with big-wave surfing. It’s the kind of community pool where you’d normally find lap swimming and water aerobics. But on this particular day, alongside the elderly women engaged in AquaZumba, an entirely different kind of class was taking place. It was a Waterman Survival
A generous portion of stellar surfing from Dane Reynolds
For the past few months, it seemed that the plug had been pulled over at Marine Layer Productions. But today it came roaring back to life with the release of “Sampler,” an 11-minute edit featuring all of the clips that didn’t end up in Dane Reynolds’ part in Cluster. According to Reynolds’ statement on Marine
Getting the barrel of your life in Mainland Mexico doesn’t come cheap
Picture the coastline of Pascuales, Mexico, with sprawling grass fields, swaying palms, and dark sand beaches perfectly angled to greet any ripple of south swell. At a glance, you’d think it’s the kind of utopia that every surfer dreams of. But the reality isn’t so inviting, and the waves there can make even the most
Matt Meola innovates along the Maui coast
In Matt Meola’s latest web edit, the beautifully shot “Home,” we find the Maui boy on his home turf doing what he does best. It’s chock-full of the kind of full rotations into the flats that set Meola apart from pretty much every other surfer in the world, but in this edit he takes his