Johnny Cabianca breaks down Gabriel Medina's magic Cloudbreak craft
Gabriel is growing up and because of that I needed to make many changes on this model, but it's still the same concept. Mostly just the volume and the foil changed, but I also changed the fin positions and fin angles for Fiji.
C.J. Hobgood discusses the crowdfunded film focusing on him and his brother
It’s going to be a mix of past and present. We’re going to be showing what it was like for my brother and me growing up, pushing each other, and getting to where we are now. But it’s also going to be about what’s happening in our lives right now.
In an era where the best aerialists see hospital beds on a regular basis, Noa Deane just might have a death wish. The 20-year-old Australian is often seen in magazines and webclips, including the recent Dane Reynolds–directed epic, Loaded, launching himself into massive, tweaked-out grabs nearly 6 feet above the lip.
It’s this kamikaze approach that has quickly lifted Deane far above the majority of his fellow freesurfers—both literally and figuratively. But he wasn’t always on track to push the limits of modern freesurfing.
“I tried the whole ‘QS thing for a little while,” says Deane. “I went to China, Newcastle, and Bali, but it just felt super stale. I still like competing, but a lot of the time it’s not about the person who surfs the best, but about who can hassle for the best waves, and you don’t know if you’re going to get two chances in a heat. That’s all you ask for in a heat, but you never know if you’re going to get that.”
Feeling disillusioned after his first few ‘QS events, Deane booked a ticket to Telo Island in Indonesia, hoping to cut loose in some real waves. The resulting web edit, Radio Friendly, was filled with the kind of make-or-break frontside airs that have since become his trademark, and people noticed.
“I started getting asked to go on a bunch of trips,” says Deane. “I got invited to Mexico with Dane Reynolds, and France to film with Kai Neville, and I just thought, ‘Holy crap. I’ve got to step it up now.’”
And step it up he did. His clips in Loaded were some of the best in the movie, which is a tall order considering the cast, which included Craig Anderson, Andrew Doheny, Nat Young, Taylor Knox, and Dane Reynolds himself.
“It’s such a different vibe surfing with those guys,” says Deane. “Around contests, guys give you the death stare if you land something good. But on freesurf trips everyone just gets so psyched. If someone lands something big, then someone else will try something bigger. It’s the best feeling when everyone is feeding off each other like that, and it pushes your surfing like nothing else.”
Deane is currently filming for Joe G.’s new movie, Strange Rumblings, as well as Kai Neville’s new project—that’s if he can keep himself in one piece.
“I want to try to mix it up,” he says with emphasis. “I want to surf some bigger waves and try to do some really big airs.”
On the first day of the Pipe Masters, hundreds of surf fans lined the sand in front of the Volcom house, their eyes trained on Backdoor, intently watching what they believed to be the greatest show in surfing. They had no idea what they were missing.
Less than a mile away at Log Cabins, John Florence was putting on a show that made the scene at Pipe look like an after-school special. He was dropping out of the sky into triple-up barrels over a bed-of-nails reef, emerging casually to throw powerful carves and gravity-defying airs. With the crowd transfixed by the circus tents and loudspeakers at Pipe, the only witness was a talented young filmmaker named Blake Kueny.
Such is often the case with Kueny, who travels with Florence most of the year. But the San Diego native wasn’t always entrusted with capturing moments like this and bringing them to the masses. In fact, just a few years ago he was interning at Transworld headquarters, entering data into spreadsheets in a cramped backroom office and suffering from a mild case of existential boredom.
“I just couldn’t keep doing that,” explains Kueny. “So I walked into [online editor] Justin Cote’s office one day and told him I knew how to shoot and edit videos, hoping there was some way I could help out with that instead.”
Cote took a chance on the kid and Kueny proved himself as a talented editor and videographer. Others were quick to take notice, and Kueny found his skill with a camera leading him around the globe with some of the world’s best surfers. While working on a project with Jordy Smith in South Africa, Kueny and Florence crossed paths, gathered some footage, and became fast friends.
“A few months later we were hanging in Mammoth on a snowboard trip and he asked me if I’d be down to film with him full time and just see where it went,” says Kueny. “It was a pretty easy transition. We just went from being friends to having this working friendship, and it’s been awesome ever since.”
Fast forward to a warm night on Oahu last December and a 21-year-old Blake Kueny has his hands full, literally, with SURFER Poll awards for his co-direction of Done as well as for the webclip Begin Again.
“I knew that John’s surfing would be really well received, because his surfing is incredible; it stands on its own,” says Kueny. “But you just hope that all the little decisions you make in the rest of the creative process are well received too. Making a film and getting that kind of recognition was pretty crazy. This is what I had hoped to achieve by the time I was 30, which is kind of mind blowing. I guess I’ve gotta reset and figure out some new goals.”
It was a cold and rainy night in Costa Mesa, Calif., but inside Volcom headquarters it felt something like a Native American sweat lodge. Hundreds of surf-stoked groms and tattoo-laden crusties huddled together inside the steamy warehouse-turned-skate-park-turned-theater, watching the premiere of the brand’s new film, True to This.
About halfway through the feature, perfect Maldivian lefts started tearing across the screen. Mitch Coleborn and Nate Tyler traded freight-train barrels and punchy sections with the flair you might expect, but no one could have predicted the show-stealing appearance of a relatively unknown Brazilian kid named Yago Dora. The stick-thin 17-year-old launched into huge stalefish rotations and straight slobs with style to burn. The wide-eyed crowd turned to one another and whispered a collective “Who the fuck was that?”
“I have never seen someone nail so many different airs in a single session,” says Coleborn about their Maldives trip. “He’s got every rotation, flip, and grab down, both frontside and backside. It’s unbelievable.”
Outside of Brazil, no one had heard of Dora until a little over a year ago, when he stuck a backflip on a blustery offshore day at Rocky Point. The clip dropped shortly after Gabriel Medina’s similarly acrobatic aerial, leading many to wonder what the hell they’re putting in the churrasco down south these days.
Truth be told, even Dora struggles to explain how he arrived on the world surf stage. Although his dad is a lifelong surfer and the current coach for several Brazilians on the ’QS, Dora started surfing only about six years ago.
“I was always more into playing soccer and going skating as a kid,” says Dora. “But because of my dad I was always around surfing, and when I got into it myself, he really helped me progress. Maybe the skating did too.”
Today, it would be tough to overstate Dora’s potential. Inspired by Dane Reynolds, Dora has developed the kind of flair and spontaneity that defines most modern freesurfers. It’s a far cry from the competitively minded, highly regimented approach to surfing many of his countrymen take, but Dora isn’t at all averse to the idea of channeling his approach in a competitive format as well.
“I would love to be on the World Tour one day, but I will never be a competitive machine,” says Dora. “I’m not the kind of guy who obsesses over scores or ratings. The most important thing for me is to keep having fun with my surfing and pushing myself as hard as I can.”
The Gudauskas brothers on how to never have a bad surf trip
Surf and travel go hand-in-hand, but the reality of scouring the globe for waves is far from easy. Conditions don’t bend to your itinerary, and at some point you’re bound to get skunked. The Gudauskas brothers are seasoned travelers, and therefore have been skunked more times than you can imagine. But as you can tell from their new web series Down Days, they know how to make the most out of a dry spell abroad.
Johnny Cabianca breaks down Gabriel Medina's winning Snapper stick
Gabriel has talent in many different conditions, but he's loved to fly since he was a kid. I try to work on making faster boards because I believe that more speed is the key to more expressive surfing and bigger airs. Most of the time a professional surfer tries one of my boards, their feedback is that the boards are really fast but a little hard to turn. But after a session or two, most surfers start to love the way they can move the boards and explore new lines. Gabriel basically uses three different models. The dFK (da Freak Kid), the GAME, and MEGA. All the contests he's won since 2009, and his best results up to now were with one of those models.
How Nic Vaughan traded a finance career at Morgan Stanley to chase big-wave swells
Six months ago, recent college graduate Nic Vaughan was offered the kind of opportunity that many grads would kill for: a high-paying position as an Investment Analyst at Morgan Stanley, one of the biggest financial services corporations in the world. At just 21 years old, Vaughan would be part of a team of analysts responsible […]
If you believe Daniel Thomson, tomorrow's high-performance crafts are already here
You may have seen them at your local breaks: bizarre nose-less crafts with straight rails, deep concaves, and angular tails. They look more wakeboard than surfboard. More tech than soul. At a glance, it looks like an alien craft from the distant future. But then again, looks can be deceiving. The board is called the […]
Shaper Darren Handley breaks down Mick Fanning's Pipeline craft
"The 6'10" is also really special because three weeks prior to him winning, one of the sanders that sands all his boards and fins passed away from a heart attack, so it was pretty special for Mick to win on one of that last boards he worked on. Maybe he sent Mick those last-minute waves against CJ and Yadin." —Darren Handley