Frank Solomon discusses the art of chasing waves the hard way
When John Florence wanted to get off the beaten path in search of obscure waves for his movie, View From A Blue Moon, he turned to longtime friend and South African charger Frank Solomon for guidance. That’s because Solomon has a knack for finding waves along the fringes, and he’s gone to great lengths to
With View From A Blue Moon, John Florence may take surf filmmaking to new heights
Alone in the lineup, John Florence rose to his feet just as the right-hand slab pitched toward shore. He locked into a highline, eying a crumbling section ahead. Knees slightly bent, arms quiet at his sides, he bottom-turned, launched above the lip, and floated 2…4…6 feet out of the water. It was the kind of
Snapshots from the opening night of Kevin Ancell's latest art exhibition
How California surfer/artist Kevin Ancell fought his way back from the brink of death
From the outside, Kevin Ancell’s studio doesn’t look like much. It’s crammed into a series of nondescript warehouses, lost in the bland maze of Costa Mesa’s industrial sprawl. But when Ancell lifts the corrugated steel door to his workspace, an entirely different world presents itself. Enormous oil paintings, intricate sculptures, abalone-inlaid surfboards, and all manner
Tear a hole in the spacetime continuum with the help of some reissued surf vinyl
Remember the good ol’ days when there were fewer fins on surfboards, airbrushes looked like psychedelic dreams, and surf checks involved looking out a cloudy van window whilst Zeppelin blared from the stereo? Me neither. Sadly, I was also born too late and missed the much-romanticized era of surfing during the ’70s and early ’80s.
40, San Clemente, California
Having a kid changes your life. Suddenly you find yourself telling someone else what to do. It’s weird going to the beach and watching them instead of just psyching to get out and surf. If you’re surfing because of your ego, to impress people, to make money, it’s never going to amount to anything real and you’ll never be satisfied. But if
Jamie O'Brien lights himself on fire and gets tubed in Tahiti
Part surfer, part stuntman, Jamie O’Brien never fails to come up with new and terrifying ways to nearly kill himself in the ocean. For the latest episode of his web series, J.O.B. teamed up with a Hollywood stunt coordinator to create a flame-retardant wetsuit, light himself on fire, and pull into a barrel at Teahupoo.
Surfboard collector Mark "Buggs" Arico discusses a few of his prized possessions
“It all started with one of Tom Curren’s boards. I was picking up some boards for a surf trip and saw it at my friend’s shop: a 1980s 6’5” Al Merrick hand-shaped for Curren. I rode that board on my trip, and it was such an amazing feeling. As you get older and start reflecting
Can a three-day course teach you to survive big waves?
The Salvation Army Aquatics Center in San Diego is hardly synonymous with big-wave surfing. It’s the kind of community pool where you’d normally find lap swimming and water aerobics. But on this particular day, alongside the elderly women engaged in AquaZumba, an entirely different kind of class was taking place. It was a Waterman Survival