7.22.10

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#8 Shaun Tomson

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

It’s quite ironic that the day Shaun Tomson arrived in Hawaii for his first full winter on the North Shore, Off The Wall was absolutely pumping. I picked him up from the airport, took him to where he was staying, dropped his stuff off, and charged down to the fabled break. It was early season

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7.22.10

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#9 Andy Irons

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

He’s won three World Titles and four Triple Crowns, and that’s reason enough to qualify Andy Irons for any list of greatest surfers of all time, no question about it. But lets forget that. Let’s put the crowns and the titles aside for a second, because if you know Andy and you’ve seen him surf

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7.22.10

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#10 Nat Young

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

As a kid, Nat Young had big feet and a huge self-confidence. His parents loved him winning, and they fed that confidence. Not many people understand that things were different in Australia in the early ’60s. There wasn’t a whole lot to go around. But Nat’s parents were breeding a champion. So much so, that

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7.22.10

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#11 Laird Hamilton

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

I remember Laird when he was an infant and got to know him as a child growing up on the beach at Pipeline. He always had more energy than anyone else I knew. When he was about 4 or 5 years old, Laird tied a rope around a cement block and dragged it up into

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7.22.10

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#12 Phil Edwards

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

I’ve always thought of myself as having climbed near the top, and every now and again, I’d get to peak over, but never really reached it. Phil, unfortunately, reached the top and the fact was, he had no place to go but down. I don’t think his ego would allow him to have a bad

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7.22.10

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#13 Rabbit Bartholomew

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

The Barthlomews and Townends have enjoyed seven decades of friendship. Back in the forties, my grandparents owned the original Coolangatta Hotel, where Rabbit’s mum, Betty, worked in the dining room long before either Rabbit or I had been thought of.
So we’ve been connected for a long time, Rabbit and I, but the essence of our

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7.22.10

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#14 Miki Dora

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

Depending on the situation, you never knew which Miki you were gonna get. If you were lucky enough to encounter San Miguelito Dora during his lifetime, then you probably have a Miki story. With Miki, it was either love or hate. The ambiguity made him one of modern surfing’s key icons. In the post-war, military

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7.22.10

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#15 Martin Potter

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

Pottz was a beast. He blew everybody away in terms of maneuvers and speed and flash. The first time I saw Pottz I didn’t even know who he was. I was just a little guy at T-Street, where I grew up. He paddled out one day and I saw him catch a wave right off

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7.22.10

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#16 Michael Peterson

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

Michael Peterson still sports the very same pair of mirrored aviator sunglasses he wore during the ’70s. They’re a bit beat up these days, the frame held together by sticky tape, but they still work just fine. For MP, the leather jackets, jeans, and panama hats may have been all about fashion, but the sunglasses

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7.22.10

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#17 Wayne Lynch

SURFER Celebrates the 50 Greatest Surfers of All Time

I traveled with Wayne Lynch for most of Paul Witzig’s surf movies in the late-’60s. Evolution and Sea of Joy were the classics. You get to know someone pretty well when you travel together. We rode waves all over the world: Morocco, France, Puerto Rico, Mauritius, South Africa—it is a bond we share that will

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