Steve Shearer

SURFER Contributor

12.5.12

Features

State of the Association

How government learned to love pro surfing and stop fearing drugs

How government learned to love pro surfing and stop fearing drugs.

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12.16.11

Features

Kieren Perrow Interview

The Australian journeymen on his pipe win and the future of the tour

The Australian journeymen on his pipe win and the future of the tour.

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9.22.11

Blogs

Derek Hynd and the Philosophy of Free Friction

A profile from our October 2011 issue



“Welcome to your New Religion.” That’s Derek Hynd speaking, shaking my hand after I careened semi-successfully across a glittering waist-high pointbreak on my first finless ride. Free Friction, Hynd calls it. To be honest I was pretty damn happy with my existing religion, which was surfing of the finned, Tom Blake-church-of-the-Open-Sky-variety. But that opening ride, which left me grinning and hooting like a drunk gibbon put all the rest of Hynd’s justifications and deliberations on free friction into sharp, visceral focus. Finless surfing feels damn good, like the first time you slid across a wave, or kissed a girl.

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