Observations from Day Three of the Hurley Pro Trestles
Lowers is a challenging event to judge, no doubt. (I’m apologizing in advance, but yes, today I’m going there. Quick, to the Outragemobile!) Lowers is a multi-dimensional wave, and you’ve got to judge across a number of axis – rights vs lefts, turns vs airs, hype vs substance, variety vs repetition, Kelly vs everyone else
Remote observations of a heavy Day One at Lowers
This experiment in remote coverage of the Trestles event from the Byron Bay hinterland began before dawn this morning at some ungodly hour when I woke up and rolled over and fumbled for my phone in the dark. After being punched in the face by a strobing, hundred dB pre-roll ad that screamed, “More, more,
"I thought I retired from this shit!"
“It’s the best old-boy wave in the world,” was how old-boy Shane Dorian summed up Sultans, the venue for the Maldives Champions Trophy, while freesurfing a few days ago. It’s kind of like a tropical version of Victoria’s Winkipop – long, lined up, occasionally mushy, but getting better the further you go down the reef.
Shane Dorian nabs the twin-fin division in the Maldives specialty event
Rob Machado’s first surfboard was a single fin. This was in 1983, and by this stage the single fin was critically endangered. Rob only ever owned one. His next board was a twin, followed by several thousand thrusters. But then, what was seen as a wild career move at the time, Rob began riding twin
Five years after the death of Hawaiian world champion Andy Irons, it's never been more difficult to separate the man from his myth
Andy Irons is in the passenger seat as the car barrels across the flat red Never Never of the Australian desert. “Brah, did we just turn back there?” The steering wheel had inched maybe three degrees to the left on the faintest, most imperceptible chicane, the only deviation in hours on this long, lonely, hot
Sean Doherty, on Gabe's win, Kelly's hypotheticals, and Finals Day of the Fiji Pro
Matt Wilkinson was doing his “morning of the Final” thing, eating cereal at the breakfast table on Namotu Island. “I think I might start my warm-ups,” he said. “Okay, First: Warm-up tube face.” He started goggling his eyes and making a face like a blow-up sex doll. “Second: Warm-up chandelier neck.” He started throwing his
Sean Doherty, on Rounds Four and Five of the Fiji Pro
In the middle of a drunken game of island bocce last week, a remarkable sight was seen. Up the beach, on his own, a hairy creature was doing overhead abdominal crunches using a large chunk of coral as a counterweight. Ace Buchan began narrating the sighting like David Attenborough in the midst of a troop
Sean Doherty on Taj's final bow and Round Three of the Fiji Pro
In the total absence of surf, competitive vibes have been few and far between in this corner of the South Pacific over the past week. They reared their ugly head for a minute the other day when a rugby ball materialized on the beach. The ball was picked up by one of the Fijian boatman,
Field notes and snapshots from Day Two of the Fiji Pro
Cut off from the outside world on this island outpost – no fans, no entourages, no girlfriends – this contest quickly becomes a self-contained social experiment. These guys literally are prisoners in paradise, and the behavior gets more jailhouse by the day. If you really want to psychoanalyze this contest, just watch the morning freesurf.
Field notes and snapshots from Day One of the Fiji Pro
In my teens, I once went blind while surfing in Fiji. Sun-blind, bad. A day under the Fijian sun, surfing Wilkes, deep-fried my retinas crunchy golden and I literally couldn’t see a finger in front of my face for two days afterward. I’d seen too much Pacific in one day, and my eyeballs had melted