5.19.14

EOS

Surf Cars: Lovable, Trashable

Surf rides were cooler when they were jalopies

Surf cars stopped being cool when they stopped being funny. Back when Elvis was King, the woody was the funniest thing this side of the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile. Surfers got woodies on the cheap because the oak panels on the back and sides were termite-chewed to the point of causing suburban social embarrassment. Seventy-five bucks, maybe […]

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5.15.14

EOS

A Tribute to Rail

Taylor Knox and his rail game are 43 years old

For 40-odd years now, I have danced and skipped and pan-fluted around our sport’s great power surfers. Jeff Hakman and BK, Simon, Kong and Tom Carroll, Sunny Garcia, Taylor Knox, now Michel Bourez—part of my lifework is to drop rose petals at their gnarly, reef-scarred, torque-generating feet. I won’t say that I have a favorite (not true: I save […]

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5.14.14

EOS

“Blazing Boards” 30th Anniversary

A review, better late than never

Chris Bystrom! Jesus, what a feisty bastard. Do or say something he didn’t like, and you’d hear about it, fast. I remember being on the receiving end of a Bystrom-penned flogging in the late 1980s, when I was in charge of the SURFER letters column. He didn’t approve of the magazine’s review for his latest […]

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5.1.14

EOS

Twin-Fins: They Mostly Sucked

You spin me right round baby right round

Just posted the EOS twin-fin page, which sent me back, reluctantly, to the mousse-tipped and cocaine-dusted years of my late teens. Here’s what I remember best about twin-fins. They mostly sucked. Yes, MR ripped on ‘em. Dane too. And young Martin Potter. The rest of us struggled. God, we struggled. Off the bottom, twins were as reliable as a wet paper bag. Top-turning, you get a […]

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4.29.14

EOS

Ian Cairns Interview

Cairns on early tri-fins and big-ass Haleiwa

Trivia time: Name the heavyweight regularfoot power surfer who got everybody’s eyebrows up and waggling at the 1981 Rip Curl Bells with his weird new three-finned board. Simon Anderson! Easiest question of the day! Next! Except no, it wasn’t Simon. It was the other heavyweight regularfoot power surfer. Ian Cairns. Kanga surfed a tri-fin at Bells that year in […]

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4.24.14

EOS

Best of “The Best”

Claiming Carissa Moore as The Best, and a quiz, for you

Hand me a gold-brocade jacket and baton, and I will lead the parade in honor of Carissa Moore. She is my female surfing ideal. On three or four different levels. Nick Lowe wrote a song lyric about “filling rooms with the sweet smell of success,” and Moore does that. (I don’t know this with total certainty, […]

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4.15.14

EOS

Brock Little Interview

"My job? I'm a surfer. I do nothing."

Haven’t talked to Brock Little for five years, give or take—no particular reason, just drifted apart—but we were pretty good friends for 20 or so years before that. Another one of those slightly inexplicable relationships I’ve managed to forge. Brock was a natural-born big-wave surfer, a street fighter, almost suicidal in his driving style. I […]

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4.10.14

EOS

Kneeboarding: Not So Weird

Surfing's second-cousin

Bill Sharp, my college roommate, was a kneeboarder. Smart guy. Funny as hell. Later became editor of Surfing mag, and ran a surfwear company or two. But a crazy fucker! Would jump off bridges in the middle of the night, midwinter, fully clothed. Got a ticket once for speeding down an alley—in reverse. Rode a hot-pink-and-black kneeboard at […]

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4.8.14

EOS

The Rebel Abides

Christian Fletcher, the rebel without a cause

Above:An EOS Birthday tribute clip from last October, on Christian’s 43rd birthday. I’ve always had a hard time getting behind Christian Fletcher’s rebelliousness. In surf terms, no child in history was born to a better life. Surfing family, beachfront house, all the gear, all the trips, media, sponsors, adulation, you can imagine. And good-looking in […]

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4.2.14

EOS

Saluting Richie Collins

Here's to Richie Collins, the master of floaters

What everybody seems to remember about my 1989 SURFER profile on Richie Collins was that he spoke, on record, briefly but proudly, about jerking off. He was (and I think still is) a devout Born Again Christian, and thus wasn’t supposed to be having sex. But he was also a masterful provocateur. At some point during my […]

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