10.7.15

EOS

Power List? I Raise You Two More!

A three-pronged inquiry and 15 great power surfers

  Finally got around to watching “Beware of Mr. Baker,” a 2012 documentary of Cream drummer Ginger Baker. What an opening scene! Baker, the craziest motherfucker to ever pick up a pair of sticks (Keith Moon at his looniest was a church deacon by comparison) is offscreen ranting about who does and does not get

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10.1.15

EOS

Mimi Munro Deserves Scorsese

An open call for Hollywood to take a chance

  Mimi Munro, today, is sweet and soft-voiced, kind of mousey, but tougher than woodpecker lips. She’s tiny . . . five-feet tall, give or take, but has arms like a bantamweight Golden Gloves contender poking out from her sundress. Her 60-something-year old face is as lined and sun-damaged as it is beautiful. There’s a

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9.24.15

Photo Blog

When Malibu was King

Why 1950s Malibu may have been the best time and place to be a surfer

Malibu, 1953. Photo: Dick Metz Best time and place to be a surfer? Malibu, after the war, before Gidget. Dave Sweet would take your board order right there on the beach. Matt Kivlin, same thing. Joe Quigg, too, if you didn’t mind waiting. Simmons was still around. Hell, Velzy had a woodworking shop just south

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9.23.15

EOS

The Ballad of Dale Velzy

The boardmaking cowboy would have been 88 today

Dale Velzy died of lung cancer, at 77, a little over ten years ago, and you have to marvel that he actually made it that far. Look at the last bit of footage in the clip above. The man’s got a Marlboro lit up in his surfboard factory; smoke dancing in and out of the

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9.15.15

EOS

Fred Van Dyke: 1929 – 2015

North Shore pioneer passes away at 86

Fred Van Dyke, who died this week at age 86, will rightly be remembered as a pioneering big-wave surfer. I’ll remember him for that as well, but more so for the way he set out to become a more evolved version of himself—a decades-long process that, among other things, saw him make a deliberate break

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9.10.15

EOS

Dropping 10s and Mics

Was Patacchia's exit the Tour's best ever?

Kelly Slater was down on the rocks at Lowers this morning, photo-bombing Fred P’s big moment as the Hawaiian tagged out with a perfect 10 during his Round One heat. I watched and wondered—was Slater maybe just a tiny bit jealous? Was there perhaps a slightly mocking voice, somewhere in the back of that flawless chestnut-brown dome (Kelly’s, not Freddy’s), whispering “You should

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8.31.15

EOS

Ron Stoner’s Girl

The sweetness before the darkness

  Ron Stoner was the world’s best surf photographer in 1966, and had some money in his pocket, and was good-looking in the bargain. But he was a wash-out with the ladies. Took his sister to SURFER Poll. Blew an easy chance to lose his virginity to the local party girl. That summer Stoner had his eyes on a

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8.25.15

EOS

Why I Love Barton Lynch

And you can too!

Barton Lynch and I met in early 1984. We were both staying at Mark Foo’s Home for Incurables, across from Waimea Bay. Barton, as I recall, was chaperoning a prepubescent Nicky Wood, who was already charging and shredding and acting mysterious, but went face-first into the reef at some point and flew home with his

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8.20.15

EOS

WSL: Mic Drops and Reef Cuts

The real action at Teahupoo is underwater and behind the mic

Martin Potter’s jaw-grinding voice sounds as if its been filtered through six espresso shots and a migraine headache. Ross Williams’ has me considering preemptive adenoidal surgery for my son. Todd Kline? Car salesman. Rosy Hodge? Who can hear her above the angel choir and softly strumming lutes? And then Joe Turpel. During a trifling Round

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8.7.15

EOS

Reno Abellira: Prince of Speed

A throwback to his quickness

Reno was my favorite surfer in 1970. Or rather, I guess he was in my Top Three, along with Jock and Jeff. Shit what I am saying, BK was up there too. With Lopez moving fast on the outside. But Reno always looked best in photos, with those turns that were half ballet, half Formula

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