Cairns on early tri-fins and big-ass Haleiwa
Trivia time: Name the heavyweight regularfoot power surfer who got everybody’s eyebrows up and waggling at the 1981 Rip Curl Bells with his weird new three-finned board. Simon Anderson! Easiest question of the day! Next! Except no, it wasn’t Simon. It was the other heavyweight regularfoot power surfer. Ian Cairns. Kanga surfed a tri-fin at Bells that year in […]
Claiming Carissa Moore as The Best, and a quiz, for you
Hand me a gold-brocade jacket and baton, and I will lead the parade in honor of Carissa Moore. She is my female surfing ideal. On three or four different levels. Nick Lowe wrote a song lyric about “filling rooms with the sweet smell of success,” and Moore does that. (I don’t know this with total certainty, […]
"My job? I'm a surfer. I do nothing."
Haven’t talked to Brock Little for five years, give or take—no particular reason, just drifted apart—but we were pretty good friends for 20 or so years before that. Another one of those slightly inexplicable relationships I’ve managed to forge. Brock was a natural-born big-wave surfer, a street fighter, almost suicidal in his driving style. I […]
Bill Sharp, my college roommate, was a kneeboarder. Smart guy. Funny as hell. Later became editor of Surfing mag, and ran a surfwear company or two. But a crazy fucker! Would jump off bridges in the middle of the night, midwinter, fully clothed. Got a ticket once for speeding down an alley—in reverse. Rode a hot-pink-and-black kneeboard at […]
Christian Fletcher, the rebel without a cause
Above:An EOS Birthday tribute clip from last October, on Christian’s 43rd birthday. I’ve always had a hard time getting behind Christian Fletcher’s rebelliousness. In surf terms, no child in history was born to a better life. Surfing family, beachfront house, all the gear, all the trips, media, sponsors, adulation, you can imagine. And good-looking in […]
Here's to Richie Collins, the master of floaters
What everybody seems to remember about my 1989 SURFER profile on Richie Collins was that he spoke, on record, briefly but proudly, about jerking off. He was (and I think still is) a devout Born Again Christian, and thus wasn’t supposed to be having sex. But he was also a masterful provocateur. At some point during my […]
Matt Warshaw's October chat with Hobie
Hobie Alter’s new biography, Hobie: Master of Water, Wind and Waves, was published earlier this year. Written by former SURFER editor Paul Holmes, Master recounts the life and times of the hardest working man in the surf biz. And not just surfing, but skateboarding and sailing, and just about anything else he put his mind to. Holmes is also […]
Paying tribute to the 'Gull, our humble superhero
Phil Jarratt famously called Mark Richards the “wounded seagull” because of the way Mark held his arms and hands—that avian style that was (and remains) totally unique.
It's Art Brewer's studio. We just live in it.
Art Brewer’s reach is astounding. He knows (or knew) everybody, from Griffin to Stoner to Lopez, Rabbit, Curren, Slater, right on up to John John. And they love him. They may have fought with him a time or two, but they love him—partly because he made them all look so damn good, and partly because […]
With three World Tour stops scheduled in big cities, Matt Warshaw wonders what happened to the "Dream" Tour
With three World Tour stops scheduled in big cities, Matt Warshaw wonders what happened to the "Dream" Tour.