11.18.15

EOS

RIP David Eggers: 1970-2015

Teenaged surf star who flew too close to the sun

David Eggers died on Monday, at age 45, probably of a heart attack. In 1986, Eggers was a white-hot 16-year-old World Tour rookie destined for a mantelpiece-full of World Title trophies. Eighteen months later, he was off the tour, living with his folks, cradling a freebase pipe, and tearing up the streets of La Jolla. “Yesterday was gone,” Eggers later said,

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11.12.15

EOS

Jerry Bujakowski of India

It must be the shoes

Forty-something years ago, after dinner, sitting around waiting for Laugh In and puberty to begin, I paged through a back issue of SURFER and landed on Drew Kampion’s gimlet-eyed coverage of the 1968 World Surfing Championships. I didn’t know it was gimlet-eyed at the moment, of course. I was nine. I looked at the surf

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10.31.15

EOS

On Coolness, And Not Caring

God bless the one and only Alec "Ace Cool" Cooke

“Outraging the Code of Cool” was the title of Warren Bolster’s great 1992 Surfer’s Journal article on Alec Cooke—Warren, on principal, refuses to call him Ace Cool. Bolster and Cooke were partners in two of Cooke’s most memorable big-wave adventures. There was the 1984 “Kanea Point Challenge,” when Cooke, looking New-Wave regal in a bright

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10.29.15

EOS

Jock Sutherland: A Salute

Reconciling with the surf star who signed up for Vietnam

“War is not healthy for children and other living things.” All you retired hippies, remember that poster? Antiwar chic, circa 1970. Thick rough-hewn type and a napalmed-black flower, set against a bright yellow background. One-third cheerful, two-thirds Grim Reaper.  Half the kids I knew in Venice had that poster on their bedroom wall; mine was slotted between an Evolution handbill

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10.21.15

EOS

Love Song to Surfer Nicknames

Here's to the Hawks, Broncos, Dingos, and Kongs

Mick Lowe was a World Tour surfer from the ’90s and ’00s. Smart and funny and always smiling beneath the clumsiest, most endearing do-it-yourself haircut ever seen outside a Dumb and Dumber movie. Loads of talent. Occy-level power. Beat Andy Irons in the finals at Snapper one year. Mick was also husky, and well-endowed around the midsection, and was thus known, not unkindly, as

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10.7.15

EOS

Power List? I Raise You Two More!

A three-pronged inquiry and 15 great power surfers

  Finally got around to watching “Beware of Mr. Baker,” a 2012 documentary of Cream drummer Ginger Baker. What an opening scene! Baker, the craziest motherfucker to ever pick up a pair of sticks (Keith Moon at his looniest was a church deacon by comparison) is offscreen ranting about who does and does not get

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10.1.15

EOS

Mimi Munro Deserves Scorsese

An open call for Hollywood to take a chance

  Mimi Munro, today, is sweet and soft-voiced, kind of mousey, but tougher than woodpecker lips. She’s tiny . . . five-feet tall, give or take, but has arms like a bantamweight Golden Gloves contender poking out from her sundress. Her 60-something-year old face is as lined and sun-damaged as it is beautiful. There’s a

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9.24.15

Photo Blog

When Malibu was King

Why 1950s Malibu may have been the best time and place to be a surfer

Malibu, 1953. Photo: Dick Metz Best time and place to be a surfer? Malibu, after the war, before Gidget. Dave Sweet would take your board order right there on the beach. Matt Kivlin, same thing. Joe Quigg, too, if you didn’t mind waiting. Simmons was still around. Hell, Velzy had a woodworking shop just south

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9.23.15

EOS

The Ballad of Dale Velzy

The boardmaking cowboy would have been 88 today

Dale Velzy died of lung cancer, at 77, a little over ten years ago, and you have to marvel that he actually made it that far. Look at the last bit of footage in the clip above. The man’s got a Marlboro lit up in his surfboard factory; smoke dancing in and out of the

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9.15.15

EOS

Fred Van Dyke: 1929 – 2015

North Shore pioneer passes away at 86

Fred Van Dyke, who died this week at age 86, will rightly be remembered as a pioneering big-wave surfer. I’ll remember him for that as well, but more so for the way he set out to become a more evolved version of himself—a decades-long process that, among other things, saw him make a deliberate break

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