7.3.14

EOS

Tom Curren Interview

Tom Curren's classic 1996 rant against the surf industry

Tom Curren, everyone’s favorite surfer, turns 50 years old today. I’m deeply invested in Tom Curren’s greatness as a surfer. So deeply invested that I’ve sometimes wondered, over the past 30-plus years, if his awkward turns on the public stage are maybe a kind of long-running performance art piece designed to shame the rest of us at the way […]

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6.27.14

EOS

Mike Hynson: Rebel Rebel

Endless Summer star turns 72

Mike Hynson was the second-most polarizing 1960s surfer, behind Mickey Dora. Those who would kneel before Hynson and kiss the ring on his well-manicured hand were roughly equal in number to those who would’ve liked to see his privileged little ass get kicked from Windansea to Big Rock and back. Hynson’s mid-decade peak in popularity was a few years before my time, […]

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6.19.14

EOS

Wipeouts

We all have 'em

“If you can’t have a spectacular ride, have a spectacular wipeout. It’s good for the sport.” I don’t know exactly when Martin Potter uncorked that pithy little bon mot. Having suffered through what seems like many lifetimes’ worth of Potter’s humorless ASP commentary, I wonder in fact if he actually said it at all. But never mind. The point stands. Wipeouts are […]

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6.12.14

EOS

Sunny Garcia Interview

Sunny takes a stroll down memory lane

Sunny Garcia and I hadn’t talked for something like 20 years. In the late ’80s we’d been friendly. Worked on a SURFER profile together when he was a skinny 17-year-old; I caddied for him in a contest or two at Sunset; we’d have dinner when he was in town for the Op Pro. Then I did one […]

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6.5.14

EOS

Peter Townend Interview

"You gotta put on a show"

“Professional surfing is 80 percent skill,” Peter Townend said in 1977. “The other 20 percent is entertainment.” You may not agree. You may think that hair gel, jumpsuits, pink boards, preening interviews, and a slavering desire to go Hollywood don’t really have a place in a worthwhile surfing ontology, and thus shouldn’t be valued at the professional level. Or not […]

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5.28.14

EOS

Jim Banks, Tuberider Extraordinaire

Tribute to an Indonesian tube hound

This humble Jim Banks birthday-week tribute page has a distinct 4/20 theme. Not sure how that happened, exactly. I got stuck on that opening part of the vid clip, with Jim discussing his hemp-glassed board, and that led to the spliffy Aggrovators tune, and that reminded me of my all-time favorite Banks story (reprinted below), […]

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5.19.14

EOS

Surf Cars: Lovable, Trashable

Surf rides were cooler when they were jalopies

Surf cars stopped being cool when they stopped being funny. Back when Elvis was King, the woody was the funniest thing this side of the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile. Surfers got woodies on the cheap because the oak panels on the back and sides were termite-chewed to the point of causing suburban social embarrassment. Seventy-five bucks, maybe […]

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5.15.14

EOS

A Tribute to Rail

Taylor Knox and his rail game are 43 years old

For 40-odd years now, I have danced and skipped and pan-fluted around our sport’s great power surfers. Jeff Hakman and BK, Simon, Kong and Tom Carroll, Sunny Garcia, Taylor Knox, now Michel Bourez—part of my lifework is to drop rose petals at their gnarly, reef-scarred, torque-generating feet. I won’t say that I have a favorite (not true: I save […]

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5.14.14

EOS

“Blazing Boards” 30th Anniversary

A review, better late than never

Chris Bystrom! Jesus, what a feisty bastard. Do or say something he didn’t like, and you’d hear about it, fast. I remember being on the receiving end of a Bystrom-penned flogging in the late 1980s, when I was in charge of the SURFER letters column. He didn’t approve of the magazine’s review for his latest […]

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5.1.14

EOS

Twin-Fins: They Mostly Sucked

You spin me right round baby right round

Just posted the EOS twin-fin page, which sent me back, reluctantly, to the mousse-tipped and cocaine-dusted years of my late teens. Here’s what I remember best about twin-fins. They mostly sucked. Yes, MR ripped on ‘em. Dane too. And young Martin Potter. The rest of us struggled. God, we struggled. Off the bottom, twins were as reliable as a wet paper bag. Top-turning, you get a […]

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