6.16.16

EOS

25 Years of Kelly in Fiji

Kelly and Cloudbreak from "Kelly Slater in Black and White"

Kelly Slater should have rested his flawlessly shaved and oiled head on a pillow last night, musing over his perfect 20-point heat in Round Four of the Fiji Pro. The double barrel on his third wave? That was a don’t-think-twice, punch-in-the-10-and-carry-on score. Easy as gravity. But for my money, the 9.77 on his opener was

more

6.8.16

EOS

Neco Padaratz: Drugs & Wife Curses

Tour could use a little more "crazed bumblebee" today

Percy “Neco” Padaratz was already a star in Brazil in 1990, at age 13. Even the American mags were paying attention, which was surprising in that casually racist pre-Brazilian-Storm era. Derek Hynd was obsessed with young Percy, and nicknamed him “Kid with Man Head.” Aaron Chang shot his portrait. Surfing named him one of the

more

5.25.16

EOS

Slater’s Wave Pool: Existential Crisis

Artificial waves are 75% less interesting

Surfing is interesting only because of waves. You’re a poetry-hating, anti-New Age atheist with a penchant for hardcore rationalism? Me too. But at some level, we know — we feel — that we’re riding ocean-transported sunbeams, and it is magical. It is what elevates surfing, and surfing alone, to the gold medal position on the

more

5.5.16

EOS

Pool Party: The Sequel

Who would you invite to Kelly's Wave?

What, a prodigious entourage flocking to Lemoore and crushing the internet yesterday, and you thought a list wasn’t on its way? Here’s my rapid-fire classic roster for Kelly’s Wave, based on who might plumb the pool’s best attributes. Simon Anderson This is a two-for-one. Simon is a late middle-aged surfer (62) who still has chops,

more

4.20.16

EOS

What If: Gerry Was Champ?

Alternative surf history ponders Lopez as '72 World Champ

Competitive surfing in the age of Nixon probably needed a rock bottom moment, a wreck to crawl away from, a lasting anti-example, and with the 1972 World Championships in San Diego, it got a beauty. What a bleak, luckless, monumentally stunted event. Like the five previous World Contests, the ’72 edition was conceived with good

more

4.11.16

EOS

Life Before GoPro

Tears and pain and revelation

I fight the good fight, daily and skillfully, against nostalgia. Usually it’s not much of a contest. New boards and wetsuits are always better than what came before. The extended 10-day forecast has all but killed the surf trip skunk. In 2016, we have Bill Finnegan and Rory Parker, among others, to help articulate our

more

4.6.16

EOS

The Vanishing Phantom

And the disappearing act of the youngest-ever male 'CT event-winner

There wasn’t much to figure out about Nicky Wood’s surfing, which was fast and spidery and entertaining. As a person, though, Wood was a mystery. Quiet. Detached. Cool, for sure, but a little strange. I think it was Derek Hynd who nicknamed him “The Phantom,” and us World Tour punters of the ’80s and early

more

3.24.16

EOS

Bells Flashback: Slater’s World

Kelly Slater recovered from his Baywatch debacle in '94 Bells Win

Kelly Slater was the most exciting thing about the 1994 Rip Curl Pro, but Dave Edwards, a 33-year-old unemployed marine engineer from Perth, gave the Champ a run for his money. Edwards had rolled into Victoria on Saturday afternoon, necked a bottle of Jim Beam, and left a good portion of his April dole check

more

3.22.16

EOS

Mike Salisbury: World’s Coolest Surfer?

From SURFER to Playboy to Rolling Stone

For 25 years now, give or take, the surfers I admire most are those who came to the sport early, loved it, still love it, but realized at some point that to build a life completely within surfing is basically ill-conceived, and thus went further afield to create, experience, achieve. Bill Finnegan and Greg MacGillivray,

more

3.14.16

EOS

Tuberiding: Less Said the Better

The impossibility of explaining a tuberide

Finally got the tuberiding page posted on EOS. Not sure how or why that one got put off for two years, although it appears that I’ve somehow managed to hold off on a few juicy items—maybe so I’ll have something to pull out of my back pocket when things get a bit dull. A little

more

Page 2 of 171234510...Last »