11.25.14

EOS

Maalaea: Faster Than Fast

Freight train to the scars

Maalaea is one of those “world’s best” surf breaks that doesn’t sing to me. Too much wind. Too little water on the reef. Nothing but relentless, brutalist speed. Sam Hawk—Sam Hawk—made one of four at Maalaea. Owl, Hakman, Owens, Ho—every Hawaii-based surf legend from the Age of Nixon to the Summer of Azalea who flies […]

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11.20.14

EOS

JJ Moon: More Myth Than Man

The original surf media troll

JJ Moon was an inside joke that blew up into a national phenomenon. “Moon” was really Ned Eckert, a high school football coach and weekend surfer with a broad “What Me Worry?” face and an amazing Sean Connery-like carpet of hair across his chest and keg-shaped belly. Mickey Dora, Corky Carroll, Joey Cabell, and Mickey […]

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11.11.14

EOS

Doc Paskowitz: 1921-2014

A legend passes

It’s with heavy hearts that we announce that Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz has passed away. He’d spent the last days of his life surrounded by his family and friends, and with support pouring in from around the world through social media channels. The Texas-born, Stanford-educated physician leaves behind an indelible mark on surf culture. He helped introduce surfing […]

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11.4.14

EOS

To Hell and Back with Pete and Flea

Two of Santa Cruz's best, dealing with Santa Cruz's worst

In 1994, Peter Mel and Darryl “Flea” Virostko, both from Santa Cruz, became the main players at Mavericks. Stayed on top for a good long time, the two of them—10 or 12 years. Peter the friendly and smiling Gary Cooper-ish gentleman killer. Flea with his deliciously poisonous charisma, the guy most likely to make the […]

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10.28.14

EOS

Everyday Dale

Three to the beach, everyday, for four decades

The new issue of SURFER just arrived, and I of course thumbed straight to my “Archive” column, settled into my black leather Le Corbusier LC3, crossed my legs, flecked a spot of dust from my sleeve, began reading, and a moment or two later chuckled softly and muttered “Warshaw, old boy, you’ve done it again.” […]

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10.21.14

EOS

Merv Larson’s Strange Trip

Wave-ski hero talks about his mind-blowing waveriding

Merv Larson was holding down the No. 10 spot last week on my Most Advanced Wave-Riders of All Time list, but having just rewatched Larson’s part in Pacific Vibrations, filmed at Rincon in 1969, I must reassess. The most progressive high-performance surfers at this point—Lynch, Young, Aurness, Spencer, Abellira—were still very much in the process […]

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10.16.14

EOS

Bow Before Mike Stewart

A hooded member of the Jedi Council of advanced wave-riders

Mike Stewart’s EOS page just posted, and to mark the occasion I will now attempt to triangulate Stewart’s woefully underrated surf-world awesomeness using Kelly Slater and George Greenough. Nobody else will do. Slater and Greenough. God and Buddha. On the thousand-plus-year parchment scroll of surf history, this is the kind of lofty company Mike Stewart […]

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10.13.14

EOS

Dick Brewer: Shaping Guru

Throwback interview to when shapers were wizards

Dick Brewer turns 78 today. Of all the shaping gurus, Brewer sat on the tallest mountain, had the most acolytes, wore the most beatific expression, and spoke in the deepest, most spellbinding voice. He was the guru’s guru. Lopez, Abellira, Fitzgerald, Chapman, among others, studied their boardmaking craft at his knee. Virtually every notable surfer […]

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10.6.14

EOS

Dick Dale Rocks Ed Sullivan

The original surf-rock legend's Ed Sullivan debut was 51 years ago this week

Fifty-one years ago today, Oct. 6, Dick Dale played the Ed Sullivan Show. Dale looked pretty damn punk rock, with his greased-up hair, wearing a black T-shirt—every other rock act at the time, most famously The Beatles, wore suits and ties for the Sullivan show—and as soon as the camera hits him, Dale rears back […]

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9.30.14

EOS

The Perfect ’70s Surfer

Terry Fitz + BK + John Peck = Sam Hawk

Give me the DNA know-how and a pair of med students in lab coats, and I would love to take a crack at building the perfect ’70s surfer. I would call him…Sam Hawk. Because that is the best surfer name ever. Now toss over a petri dish and a gene splicer, let’s get to it! […]

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