How To Paddle Out to a Localized Spot
/ Posted on March 31, 2011First of all, don’t paddle out to a localized spot. If you’re too hard-headed or frothy not to, be certain that you can surf the place better than the bottom third of the surfers out there. And even if this is the case, paddle out alone. If you’re with a friend, stagger your sessions. Once [...]
How to Pretend Like You Made the Barrel You Just Blew
/ Posted on March 16, 2011This maneuver relies on situational awareness. Where are your friends? If they’re in the judges’ tower, you’re screwed. If they’re behind the lens, you’re screwed. If they’re out the back or down the beach, you may have a chance. Now, barrel-makers are not going to pop up in the impact zone, they’re going to emerge [...]
YouTube Killed the Secret Spot
/ Posted on February 4, 2011Can secret spots survive the age of social networking?
Lessons From A Backyard Adventure
/ Posted on November 15, 2010SURFER Senior Editor Kimball Taylor and SURFER Assistant Photo Editor JP Van Swae spent the night camping together, in one small tent, on the beach at a Southern California surf spot. Here’s are a few things they learned: You’re camping at this spot because you love it. But you may have to break the law [...]
Staycation Limitations
/ Posted onWhat do Pipeline, Supertubes, and Cloud Nine have in common? Yes, they’re all world-class waves. But before they were known to the world, before they had names even, they were staycation destinations. In the early 1950s Pat Curren and a buddy lived out of a panel van, on what was an empty, palm-shaded lot, directly [...]
A Searching And Fearless Moral Inventory
/ Posted on July 22, 2010Thirty-seven-year-old big-wave champion Darryl “Flea” Virostko and I stood on a cliff above the grey North Pacific. The wind howled. The surf spot we’d come to check folded in upon itself far below us. Flea unburied his golf bag from the bed of his battered Toyota Tundra. Just couple of years old, it belched white [...]
Navarre’s Last Session
/ Posted on July 1, 2010Most Pensacola surfers drove the 15 miles down to Navarre yesterday, because there’s a couple of good banks at the pier and the oil had yet to hit there. Pensacola was already covered. Apparently, in the past, Navarre wasn’t visited much. But the oil situation packed the lineup. The fact that black tar wasn’t visible, [...]
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