Kimball Taylor

Senior Writer, SURFER Magazine

11.28.14

Features

On Falling, Part V

How wipeouts have helped shape the evolution of surfing. A five part series.

On Feb. 14, 2010, the day after the Mavericks Surf Contest was held in record size, Shane Dorian paddled out from Pillar Point and took the beating of his life. In perfect position for a particularly freakishly big set, Dorian spun from the pack and stroked into an estimated 40 feet of wave face. It […]

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11.27.14

Features

On Falling, Part IV

How wipeouts have helped shape the evolution of surfing. A five part series.

In 1921, on his first attempt at surfing, the sport’s most celebrated inventor, Tom Blake, wiped out so badly, he wouldn’t try to surf again for another three years. He had already met Duke Kahanamoku by this time, and was inspired to take up the ocean lifestyle. He swam competitively and lifeguarded in Los Angeles, […]

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11.26.14

Features

On Falling, Part III

How wipeouts have helped shape the evolution of surfing. A five part series.

Greg Noll admitted that he wasn’t a great performer like Phil Edwards, but then again, he weighed 230 pounds. “When you surf bigger waves, you’re blowing through the chop, paddlin’ like shit, keepin’ the spray out of your eyes, and driving to the bottom. It’s not as finely tuned,” Noll said. “And that was a […]

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11.25.14

Features

On Falling, Part II

How wipeouts have helped shape the evolution of surfing. A five part series.

In 1998, Australians Mick Campbell and Danny Wills each held a lead over Kelly Slater in the title race heading into Pipeline. This scenario was widely seen as sweet comeuppance to U.S. domination at the hands of the “Momentum Generation.” A number of young Aussies had even coalesced and trained around an antagonistic moniker, “LMB,” […]

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11.24.14

Features

On Falling, Part I

How wipeouts have helped shape the evolution of surfing. A five part series.

In 1964, Robert August, Mike Hynson, and Bruce Brown landed in Tahiti to film for The Endless Summer. By that late date, the island’s Polynesian surfing tradition had been extinct for nearly 200 years. Feverish British missionaries, skating in on the heels of Captain Cook’s 1769 arrival, put an end to surfing and dancing and […]

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2.18.14

Features

The Junket

Jet-setting with GoPro founder Nick Woodman, surfing's first billionaire

We sat down to dinner and celebrity CNN anchor Anderson Cooper was describing the time he flew out to Ohio to see a woman about her cult of hyper-conscious bonobo apes, and about the incredibly nasty things that one of them did to a purple beach ball that Cooper brought as a gift. The apes […]

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12.27.12

Features

Camping The Californias

A Collection Of Thoughts On The Act Of Sleeping In The Dirt

A collection of thoughts on the act of sleeping in the dirt.

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8.27.12

Features

What Am I Doing Here Alone?

The unbearable lightness of being Kepa Acero

The unbearable lightness of being Kepa Acero.

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7.27.12

Features

Johnny A.W.O.L.

A lot of young Americans join the Army to get out of their small-town circumstances.  Johnny joined to make his dreams come true, but he quickly discovered that those dreams were at odds with the system. So, at a time when the country embarked on its grandest military adventurism, Johnny, who was still enlisted, went […]

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4.13.11

Blogs

How to Sell a Board on Craigslist

Craigslist has quickly become the ideal venue for selling a used surfboard. The site doesn’t extract the high commissions surf shops do, it provides your board a greater audience, and if the board doesn’t sell right away, you have the ability to drop the price, change the photos or modify your sales pitch. 1. Pricing—Research […]

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