63, San Francisco, California
Surfing is the healthiest orientation I can imagine. It’s been an organizing principle in my life. It’s made me a better physician. I work with people who have life-threatening illnesses and they’re trying to get healthy enough to do things like jump in the ocean. And it constantly validates my surfing. My patients won’t let
Surf stories that have taken on a life of their own
One Bar to Rule Them All In the winter, San Francisco’s Ocean Beach is 3 miles of shifty, hulking peaks blitzing two distinct rows of sandbars. On mortal-sized days—say, up to 6 feet or so—the action takes place along the Inner Bar. When the Aleutian storm factory is in full production, huge waves begin unloading
How to spin your own surf yarn, the right way
Fifteen or so years ago, I lucked into a miracle surf session in Baja. After hours of dusty, axle-grinding driving along the wind-blasted coast near [REDACTED], my friend pulled his truck off the jeep trail near a crumbling precipice overlooking a secluded rock-strewn pointbreak. The spot wasn’t on any of our surf maps, but a
One step closer to surfers going for the gold
The Tokyo Olympic Organizing Committee announced early this morning that it approved surfing for inclusion in the 2020 Tokyo games. This doesn’t mean that surfing is officially in yet, just that the Tokyo games organizers have recommended its addition, along with four other sports — baseball/softball, karate, sport climbing, and skateboarding. The surfing portion would
Week In Review
Mullet surfing! Laird's New Job! Longest Bodyboard Barrel Ever!
Random happenings in surf for the week of September 25th
Week In Review
Slater v Tudor Battle! Orcas terrorize San Diego! Wavepool perfection!
Random Happenings in surf for the week of September 18th
Of the unsurfable kind, but still...
Snowdonia what now? That well-overhead sloshing you see above is purely in the name of science, but oh, the possibilities! The Dutch, ever-vigilant to the possibilities of their entire country being subsumed beneath the freezing waters of the Atlantic, built this tsunami-replicating beast to test the water-resisting ability of some of their legendary dike technology.
Outside Magazine explores healing benefits of our watery lifestyle
We surf for countless reasons, many of which change session to session: the mindless fun, the adrenaline-soaked thrills, to tap into the mysteries of the universe, or just as slaves of addiction. But for those suffering from PTSD, surfing is increasingly seen as an invaluable and uniquely effective therapeutic treatment. In an article published to
May your surfing, like Shaun Tomson's, age like wine
Did you watch the Heritage Heat at the Hurley Pro last week? If not, take a moment, watch it below then come back, I’ll wait. In fact, I’ll still be there, re-watching it long after you’ve left—don’t worry, I’ll shut the lights off when I leave. Now take a look at the pic above, taken in a
Week In Review
Random Happenings in surf for the week of September 11th
Random happenings in surf for the week of September 11th