59; Indonesia; surf-charter captain
The Indonesian dream is still alive. There are windows where you can still score great waves at the popular spots and be all alone. It’s just a matter of really knowing the winds and the weather. I don’t miss where I grew up in Australia at all. Not with its $23 packs of cigarettes. Indonesia
New natural rubber will change how we all wetsuit
For the past couple of years, Patagonia has been knocking on the door of eliminating neoprene from its wetsuits. As much as we love wearing it, neoprene is truly chemically nasty, both in terms of the petroleum products it consists of, as well as the production process itself. Unfortunately, it’s also been a necessary environmental
"Freezing," The most aptly-named Icelandic surf film parody ever made
What do you get when you cross the British version (AKA: the better one) of “The Office” with a hard-bitten travelogue of an Icelandic surf strike? You get Freezing, the best “The Office”-style surf film parody ever. Period. Also, the only “The Office”-style surf film parody. We received a screener a few weeks back, watched it,
Week In Review
Skimboarding Nazare! Bob Saget's Surf Film Debut! Happy Birthday Nat Young!
Random happenings in surf for the week of November 13th
Why Oahu's North Shore is still the surf world's proving ground
If you think about it in the proper headspace (let’s say three beers in), the relationship that mainland surfing has had with Oahu’s North Shore for the past seven decades or so looks an awful lot like a youthful, hot-blooded love affair—one that burns brightly at first, grows cool after time and familiarity, and then,
Week In Review
Reef Girls! Surf With Slater! Mavericks Terrors! And more...
Random happenings in surf for the week of November 6th.
When Murphy's Law punches your surf trip in the mouth
This past June, when San Francisco surfer McNair Evans and friends left California for Indonesia just in time for the best swell in decades, they had no idea that Murphy’s Law would punch their long-planned surf trip right in the mouth. Here’s a timeline of maybe the most frustrating Indo mission ever, through no fault
Five years after Andy's passing, his absence is still felt on Tour
We’ll never know how long Andy Irons would have remained a competitive force on the World Tour. He’d be 37 years old today, five years younger than Kelly. While Slater’s laser-beam focus on diet and keeping his body in near-perfect shape have temporarily staved off his aging process, it’s difficult to imagine A.I. still dragging
North Shore, Oahu
I always saw my kids as little buddies. I wasn’t really grown up yet when I had them. I was still kind of a kid myself. Being able to go to the beach and be outside all the time when they were little definitely made it easier to raise them. It helps to have a
Week In Review
To Claim or Not to Claim! Terrifying Sea Creatures! Kiteboarding Majesty!
Random happenings in surf for the week of October 30.