Testing the claim that you're more likely to be struck by lightning than attacked by a shark
One of the most baffling aspects of Mick Fanning’s recent encounter with a great white shark is the statistical improbability of it even happening in the first place. As surfers, we’re all familiar with the “you’re statistically more likely to be killed by lightning than attacked by a shark” argument (adding a touch of irony
Research is underway to use ferns and corals in producing ingestible UV protection
Today, there are more new cases of skin cancer annually than breast, prostate, lung, and colon cancers combined, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. One in five Americans will develop skin cancer of some sort in their lifetime. These stats are especially pertinent for surfers, who spend more time than most absorbing the harmful rays
Five aquatic adaptations you didn’t know you had
At a glance, humans look pretty out of place in the ocean. We have low-capacity lungs, lack insulation, and our concept of “swimming” is laughably inefficient compared to our finned mammalian cousins. But thanks to a handful of adaptive traits, we might be much more at home in the lineup than we realize. 01. Finger
A look at California’s plan to use desalination in combatting the drought
If you live and surf in California, you’re likely aware that fresh water is in short supply. But you may not know that the state is turning to the Pacific for aid during the drought crisis. The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers are 11 trillion gallons below normal seasonal levels, snowpack and groundwater levels are
Sizing up the dangers of oil exploration along the East Coast
“Seismic airgun testing will cause catastrophic impacts to the marine ecosystem, including injury or death to hundreds of thousands of whales and dolphins. It will also set the stage for offshore drilling off the Atlantic coast, a dirty and dangerous practice that threatens the health of our oceans and coastal communities.”
Five reasons why local handshapes should always have a place in your quiver
We all know that the era of mass-produced handmade surfboards has come and gone. The biggest board manufacturers in the world rely on design programs and CNC machines more than skilled hands and power planers. But hand shaping hasn’t vanished from the earth—it just changed its address. Instead of residing in big factories, it’s moved into backyards, garages, and tool sheds. And while today’s hand shapers may not be able to churn out the same volume of boards as the biggest brands in the industry, they have more than a few redeeming qualities.
Why we should embrace the wavepool revolution
Is a person riding a manmade wave still considered a surfer? Well, are people skiing manmade snow still considered skiers? Technically, riding a wave is surfing no matter where the wave comes from. Yet there are those that believe wavepools will eliminate the very essence of surfing by taking randomness out of the equation and making waves uniform. They presume that riding the same perfect, clean, barreling wave over and over would make surfing feeling stale. Really?
By pandering to our shrinking attention spans, modern surf films are losing their charm
With progression inevitably comes exclusion. Things are left behind, and we seldom stop to look back. We’ve moved on. Progressed. Matured, maybe. But nostalgia creeps in the wake of what was lost, and we become curiously aware of something missing. Pick any of the best modern films and you’ll see the same phenomenon: Bottom turn to air. Bottom turn to air. The occasional pump into a barrel. Bottom turn to tail throw. Cue lifestyle shot. Nobody’s paddling anymore. Nobody’s taking off, dropping in, linking maneuvers, or kicking out. It’s all been left on the cutting room floor. Deemed unnecessary. We never get to see that moment when the wave stacks up and the surfer decides to go for it. The complete ride in surf films is on the verge of extinction.